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Routes in Lost Crag

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Shared By: M Sprague on Jan 22, 2012
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

Description

Usually hidden in the trees when the leaves are out, you may be able to catch a glimpse of this area from the loop road by looking NE from the vicinity of the Ball Buster boulder when they are down. This is one of the more extensive chunks of rock at Lincoln Woods, where people used to sometimes set up TRs in the past for the higher problems. With pads they are now getting done more as highballs. At approximately 20-25 feet at spots and occasional bad landings, a TR might still be a good idea for some lines.
If coming from the The Best Kept Secret area area, you will be dropping down around the left edge of the Main Wall. You will know you are there by the big clinking Champagne glasses graffiti on the otherwise tall, beautiful, gently overhanging Blacksmith face. The far right side of this crag is named after the route Earth Mover. Below are more boulders, including Dream Time. If you keep going east towards Goat Rock, you will pass the Coffin Boulder on the same hillside.

Getting There

If driving around the pond on the loop road, after you have passed the dam and the T intersection (go left), after the road winds up the hill, but before you get to the Warm Up Area parking, take the paved road up the hill on your right to picnic area #s 25 and 26. If walking from the Warm Up area, follow the loop road back against traffic (east), past the Tomato boulders and in a few minutes the picnic road will be on your left. This spur road will take you up to two flat areas. In back of the first is Best Kept Secret Area, which is a great warm up spot. From this little crag head back into the woods (north) then turn right, slightly down hill (east). The lost Crag is only a couple minutes from the Best Kept Secret

6 Total Climbs

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Photos

MaxMonn
Providence, RI
MaxMonn   Providence, RI
The lines on the lower lost crag boulder should totally be added here as several of them are in fact really nice! I don't have the original names so I'd want to leave it to someone like you Joe who knows them.

as for Dream Time, with the right beta felt V4 ish to me. Oct 18, 2015
Maxx Eichberg
Dunedin, New Zealand
Maxx Eichberg   Dunedin, New Zealand
Thanks for the quick response! It is a great line, hard for me though, v6? Oct 14, 2015
Joe M.    
You are correct, and yes, I have done it. Oct 14, 2015
Maxx Eichberg
Dunedin, New Zealand
Maxx Eichberg   Dunedin, New Zealand
is Dream Time on the boulder directly below Earth Mover, the climb on the far right side (triangle-type crimp) of the 2nd beta photo? If so, has anyone done it? Oct 13, 2015

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