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Kanawha State Forest

W Virginia > Southern WV

Description

Kanawha State Forest near Charleston, WV is not by any means a destination crag, but does have some potential and offer some good rock. It does not seem to be crowded, but the rock is sandstone and quite skin friendly.

Getting There

Search Kanawha State Forest on a GPS. Coming North from Charleston, turn left at the entrance onto Range Rd. Follow Range Rd for about 1.5 miles. You should pass the Ballard Trailhead on right just before the gun range and parking lot. Hike up Ballard Trail until you start to see some big boulders. As you continue up the trail and it switches back towards the top and end this is where you'll see a bigger rock outcropping with all the climbing. Total approach is about a mile.   

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is the Kanawha State Forest Map, and at the top of Ballard biking trail is where Sassafras Boulders and Routes are. Please stand far off the trail when bikers approach and do not leave any items such as bags or crash pads on the trial where they could block the bikers path.
[Hide Photo] This is the Kanawha State Forest Map, and at the top of Ballard biking trail is where Sassafras Boulders and Routes are. Please stand far off the trail when bikers approach and do not leave any ite…
Good place for top rope, using trees as anchors.
[Hide Photo] Good place for top rope, using trees as anchors.
So much potential.
[Hide Photo] So much potential.
This crag keeps going and going. I found this beautiful piece of rock further down. Starts with pockets, then some slopers, finishes with jugs! I wish I was there longer. Somebody with skill could have a field day naming routes and setting FAs.
[Hide Photo] This crag keeps going and going. I found this beautiful piece of rock further down. Starts with pockets, then some slopers, finishes with jugs! I wish I was there longer. Somebody with skill could…
Potential routes!!
[Hide Photo] Potential routes!!
A nice roof that has so many potential problems to be worked.
[Hide Photo] A nice roof that has so many potential problems to be worked.
More boulders at the top of Ballard. So much potential.
[Hide Photo] More boulders at the top of Ballard. So much potential.
Boulders at the top of Ballard. So much potential.
[Hide Photo] Boulders at the top of Ballard. So much potential.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] There are some really good places to climb. The fastest way to get to the cliffs by foot is by Ballard Trail from Range Road. Range Road is on the left just before you enter the park. It's the same way to the shooting range. There is a sign that says Ballard Trail just before you get to the shooting range.

The Trail up to the boulders is a good 20 minute hike and it is steep. The shooting range near by is kind of unsettling.

Another way to get to the other side of Ballard Trail is by Mountain Bike on Middle Ridge Road.


CAUTION: We nearly stepped on a Timber Rattlesnake the last time we went on the trail! It was coiled under some leaves that were hanging over the trail. Be careful! We took pictures and left it alone, but it was a good reminder to keep the critters in mind! Sep 6, 2015
[Hide Comment] Started developing Sassafras Boulders at the top of Ballard Biking trail. There are probably 30-50 problems that could be established all within 300 feet walking distance of each other. All of the problems are on Ballard trail or 10-15ft off Ballard trail which makes access very easy. The hike up to Sassafras Boulder from parking at the Shooting range is about a half mile, and there is cell phone reception at the boulders. The boulders get their name from all the Sassafras plants found along the trail. Please take a crash pad up there and establish some problems. A few projects have been started in the cave! Aug 1, 2016
[Hide Comment] Was able to develop some more boulder problems in the cave and on a new boulder. Take a brush with you and continue adding new problems and routes. The area has potential to become a great bouldering location near Charleston, WV. Mar 16, 2017
[Hide Comment] Visited KSF again and repeated a bunch of the boulder problems, and added a new V6 and V7. Great place to go climb after work if you live and the area and are looking for something different. Mar 19, 2018
Doug Chism
Arlington VA
[Hide Comment] I was here on Black Friday with my wife. We threw a rope down a couple of the listed routes, but there are tons more potential routes in this area not listed. Id guess 30-40 routes, some 50-60ft tall by my guess, all beautiful sandstone. You would have to bushwack quite a bit to setup anchors thats the only downside. Anchor trees for the listed routes are accessible quite easily. There are lots of sick boulders also, way above our ability level but there are holds that somebody can use I am sure of it. The rock is super grippy. We were in town visiting family but if I lived in Charleston I would be out there every weekend. The approach kinda sucks, steep and muddy, and the gunshots ringing out every few seconds kinda ruins the tranquility, but otherwise the place rocks! I will be back in the spring when we visit next for sure. Nov 24, 2018
Casey M
SL, UT
[Hide Comment] Visited this past weekend just to scope it out. Currently not climbing due to injury but was curious and I have to agree, there is a lot of potential here! Not sure if there's a local climbing org to help clean and develop routes, but if further developed I could definitely see this becoming a popular crag. I did see some leftover webbing and anchors so glad to see some ppl getting after it. Approach isn't that bad, park at the range and hike up. It is noisy tho. Jul 6, 2023
[Hide Comment] Hello CRW climbers—that’s something I couldn’t imagine saying 20 years ago. I was raised in Charleston, spent the first half of my life here and moved out west to Bishop in 2000, had some stints in Boulder, CO and many seasons in Hueco Tanks along with other international destinations. I’m back in Charleston for the first time in 23 years and would be stoked to connect with any crews going out to Kanawha State Forest for a bouldering sesh or 2. My wife and I are on an extended sport climbing trip to The New but are basing out of Crw for all of Sept. /part of Oct. We will be around a bit and I’d love to see how KSF evolved as something other than where I hiked and mountain biked way back in the day. We don’t have crashpads but are old school, proficient spotters and I’ve developed a boulder field or 2 around the world. Psyched to connect with folks! Sep 11, 2023