Dornental Rock Climbing
|GPS:||50.347, 7.223 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||570 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||scoTt Millbern on Jan 21, 2012|
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DescriptionThis small crag, in the Mayen group, offers some nice moderate crack climbs. There are also some quality face climbs with the typical basalt style climbing, slapping up blocks and squeezing columns.
Most of the routes have some bolts, but a small rack of mostly mid sized gear is nice to have. There are a few routes that do not need gear.
You won't need much small gear, and nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot should be needed (double #3's might be nice)
The cracks here are pretty smooth and care should be used when placing cams. In some cases it is advisable to double up, even with good looking placements. There are stories of well placed cams pulling out. In addition, you should (as always) watch for loose blocks when placing gear, this is an old quarry after all.
Getting ThereTo get to the Mayen crags you can park along the L82, between Mayen and Etteringen. The crag is just north from Mayen about 500 meters on the left side of the road (you will not see it from the road).
Park along the road (be careful people tend to drive pretty quickly along this road) and look for a path into the bushes. After about 10 meters you should come to a pair of boulders in the path.
Continue along the path until you come to a field. At the field ahead and a little to the right is a stand of trees, this is Finsterlay, beyond to the right is another stand of trees where Dornental is.
Be respectful of the farmers, if the field is planted walk around to get to the crag and not across the field! The path comes in from the west side of the trees.
Once in the trees look for an old crane deck.
Head down a steep(ish) trail to the left in from of the crane.
This will take you to the crag.
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