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Routes in Dornental

Basaltschatz S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dornenkamin S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dornenriss T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dornröschen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eifel Rock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glückspilz T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kleiner Pirat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Megatron T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prinzenrolle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rosenstolz T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Starfighter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
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Description

This small crag, in the Mayen group, offers some nice moderate crack climbs. There are also some quality face climbs with the typical basalt style climbing, slapping up blocks and squeezing columns.

Gear
Most of the routes have some bolts, but a small rack of mostly mid sized gear is nice to have. There are a few routes that do not need gear.

You won't need much small gear, and nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot should be needed (double #3's might be nice)

Notice
The cracks here are pretty smooth and care should be used when placing cams. In some cases it is advisable to double up, even with good looking placements. There are stories of well placed cams pulling out. In addition, you should (as always) watch for loose blocks when placing gear, this is an old quarry after all.

Getting There

To get to the Mayen crags you can park along the L82, between Mayen and Etteringen. The crag is just north from Mayen about 500 meters on the left side of the road (you will not see it from the road).

Park along the road (be careful people tend to drive pretty quickly along this road) and look for a path into the bushes. After about 10 meters you should come to a pair of boulders in the path.
Boulders on the path to Mayen
Continue along the path until you come to a field. At the field ahead and a little to the right is a stand of trees, this is Finsterlay, beyond to the right is another stand of trees where Dornental is.

50°20'12.6"N
7°13'47.0"E

Be respectful of the farmers, if the field is planted walk around to get to the crag and not across the field! The path comes in from the west side of the trees.

Once in the trees look for an old crane deck.
Crane Deck
Head down a steep(ish) trail to the left in from of the crane.
This will take you to the crag.

11 Total Climbs

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