Elevation: 5,398 ft
GPS: 37.734, -119.646 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,587 total · 18/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jan 15, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The Hourglass is the obvious, 350 ft tall, hourglass shaped exfoliation slab situated at the base of the wall to the right of the Ribbon Falls Amphitheater. The left side goes as a scary and committing 11a while the right side is a very stout 10a offwidth. I also spied some fixed gear out on the face towards the center of the pinnacle, but I don't know if a center route has been completed or not.

Getting There

It's a bit of a hike, but the Hourglass is worth it. Park at the woodyard on the right side of North Side Drive a bit past El Cap Meadow. Leave the dirt road as you would for Gold Wall and follow cairns and faint climbers trails through the forest along the west bank of Ribbon Creek. At some point you will need to cross the creek and continue through the forest and up a final steep section of loose dirt to reach the base.

It's easy to lose sight of the Hourglass on the approach, but there is a long, arching roof several hundred feet higher up on the wall that you can usually see through the trees. Use this arching roof to orient yourself, as the Hourglass is directly below it.

If you do this climb when Ribbon Creek is not running the approach will be significantly easier. You can follow the Ribbon Creek drainage for most of the approach before cutting right up the hillside just before you reach the base of the cliff.

2 Total Climbs

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Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite