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Warm-up Area

Pennsylvania > S Central PA > Governor Stable
Warning Access Issue: Private Property. DetailsDrop down

Description

The warm-up area is the first cluster of boulders you come to when you arrive at GS. Problems here range from easy to hard, but an abundance of easier lines combined with its location make this the perfect place to warm up.

Getting There

First Boulders reached at GS. 10 minutes from the parking lot, 5 from the road.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Crunt/Crimpy Stand Up/Corner Slab boulder in the foreground, with "Royale With Cheese" in the background
[Hide Photo] The Crunt/Crimpy Stand Up/Corner Slab boulder in the foreground, with "Royale With Cheese" in the background
Twin Soldiers, Royal With Cheese, Etc
[Hide Photo] Twin Soldiers, Royal With Cheese, Etc
"Kid in a Candy Store" (v0)
[Hide Photo] "Kid in a Candy Store" (v0)
Private Slabby, V0
[Hide Photo] Private Slabby, V0

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know what the problem to the right of Karmic Power is called/grade? My friend and I didn't have a guidebook and it doesn't say on here. Apr 22, 2013
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
[Hide Comment] No Moss, V9? I think there's something in between the two but it might either be an open project or dumb. No Moss starts in the crimp seam on the far right of the Karmic Power boulder. Jan 27, 2014
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
[Hide Comment] This is also called the Upstream Arete area. The problem on the right side of the Upstream arete boulder that you refer to is a V8/9, like Seth said. It was first done by Matt Bosley in 2004 after being tried by many locals in the year prior. It starts in the seam on 3/4 pad crimps with one high foot chip, slaps to a perfect but hideously sloping lip, then a quick snatch to a jug. This problem is one of the absolute best of it's grade range at any diabase area, Haycock included. It is also one of the most powerful and simple problems on diabase I have seen. The slopers are plain amazing.

The similar looking climb to the left of No Moss is a project. It's features and holds are almost the same as those on the climb to the right, but with less feet and no jug to toss to. The starting crimp seams are textbook, the sloping lip is worse, and the top slab has a few tiny grips. One would need to get established well on the sloping lip to attain the upper slab crimps with control. I suspect it is no easier than V11. When completed, this project will be one of the best hard problems in Pennsylvania. Jan 30, 2014