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Cirque of the Moon

Wyoming > Wind River Range

Description

This is a compact horseshoe of walls and buttresses lying south of the North Fork of the Popo Agie about 12 miles in from Dickinson Park between Long Lake and Papoose Lake. Rock is generally high quality Wind River granite and the location secluded relative to the nearness of the Popo Agie. First routes were done in here in 1978/79 by personnel including: Mark Dalen, Mark Leonard, Dave Baltz, Dave Dahrling, Paul Horak and Mike Head.

UPDATE:

Since this page was first posted in 2011 there has been a burst of activity in this area.  Apart from Pipeline seeing its 3rd ascent, a number of quality lines & at least one boulder problem have been reported.  These include 1) a multipitch choss challenge left of the main face of Cowcatcher, 2) an ascent of the 3rd buttress of Tycho Wall, plus another route in the vicinity, 3) an array of difficult slab & crack climbs to the left of Sunset Buttress below a feature which the first ascencionists have named Sumac Point.  The Mansion is an overhanging highball/TR problem found in the forest below the talus bench leading into the cirque ...

Speaking of boulder problems, it bears mentioning that the rubbly floor of the cirque offers virtually unlimited potential for development ... on our first visits to the area our group would indeed spend evenings ranging the boulderfield in search of problems....

Getting There

North of Lander, WY, turn into the Shoshone National Forest and follow service roads up to Dickinson Park. Trail climbs a shoulder to the east before dropping down to the Popo Agie following the river first south then curving west toward the Cirque of the Towers. Only one river crossing is required as long as the bridge is not taken that lies about 1 mile downriver of the turnoff to the Cirque of the Moon. Wander instead through dense forest on the south side of the river until boulders appear from the talus bench leading into the cirque (open sky will also be visible). Floor of the cirque is largely boulders and rubble (a moonscape, if you will) but for one patch of tundra which has supported up to 3 tents and lies within a hundred yards of a tarn where water can be had.

NOTE: Most, if not all, recent visitors to this area have approached via Cirque of the Towers ... Ian Dorko, whose team gave Pipeline its third ascent, writes:

'Approaching from the Big Sandy trailhead is pretty easy (although long, ~15 miles one way).  All but the last ~1.5 miles where you drop down to the river and then up the other side into the cirque are a good trail.'

Routes from Left to Right

V1-2 5 R
 2
The Mansion
TR, Boulder, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 1
Bo Mambo
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 2
Martian Moonbase
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 1
Brokeback Mountain
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 2
Reginald's Roar
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 3
Forest Creatures
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 1
Two Left Feet
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Chicken Talk
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 1
Buffalo Crude
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 1
Telstar
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
 2
Pipeline
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0
 2
Space Ghost
Trad, Aid, Alpine 10 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A1 X
 1
Moonquakes
Trad, Aid, Alpine 10 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 1
The Last Resort
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1 R
 1
Mare Frigoris
Trad, Aid, Alpine 13 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A5
 1
Cowcatcher
Trad, Aid, Alpine 5 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1
 1
Holding Out for a Hero
Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C1
 2
Moonrise Kingdom
Trad, Aid, Alpine 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Mansion
 2
V1-2 5 R TR, Boulder, Alpine
Bo Mambo
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine
Martian Moonbase
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Brokeback Mountain
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Reginald's Roar
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Forest Creatures
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Two Left Feet
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Chicken Talk
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Buffalo Crude
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Telstar
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Pipeline
 2
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Space Ghost
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0 Trad, Aid, Alpine 10 pitches
Moonquakes
 1
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A1 X Trad, Aid, Alpine 10 pitches
The Last Resort
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Mare Frigoris
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1 R Trad, Aid, Alpine 13 pitches
Cowcatcher
 1
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A5 Trad, Aid, Alpine 5 pitches
Holding Out for a Hero
 1
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1 Trad, Aid, Alpine 9 pitches
Moonrise Kingdom
 2
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C1 Trad, Aid, Alpine 8 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cirque of the Moon
[Hide Photo] Cirque of the Moon
Screen cap of the Cirque of the Moon viewed from due north.
[Hide Photo] Screen cap of the Cirque of the Moon viewed from due north.
Screen cap of the Cirque of the Moon viewed from the NE.
[Hide Photo] Screen cap of the Cirque of the Moon viewed from the NE.
Cirque pic from the top of Martian Moonbase
[Hide Photo] Cirque pic from the top of Martian Moonbase
The steepness as seen from the sunset wall
[Hide Photo] The steepness as seen from the sunset wall

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J. Albers
Colorado
[Hide Comment] Great addition to MP; the old photos are sweet. Nice job Doc. Dec 30, 2011
Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] Thanks J, glad you like it. Funny that it took 30 years for the forum to exist wherein these routes could be posted. Hopefully as some of the other ascensionists come to notice it the entry may be further 'fleshed out'. Certainly more and better photos can be had. The ones here are scanned prints of transparencies, that is to say, twice removed from the original images. And they are all I have after losing all my slides some years back. We always thought the area was worth some notice. It would be particularly nice to know if any of the routes have been repeated since their initial establishment in the late 70s.... Dec 31, 2011
Matt Hartman
Leavenworth WA
[Hide Comment] awesome May 31, 2013
jayci Ferrimani
Flagstaff
[Hide Comment] I visited this area a few weeks ago. Pipeline looks awesome! I took a good look at the Third buttress of Tyco. It looks as good as alpine rock gets! Nice job! Sep 5, 2013
Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] The third buttress is a bit more fractured but there's a definite line on it. While you're at it check out the west side of Cowcatcher (directly across the canyon) - depending on rock quality there's a potential bodacious multi-pitch free climb there.... Sep 7, 2013
Nathan Maxon
Wyoming
[Hide Comment] Don't forget your reservation fishing permit - the road to Dickinson Park passed through the reservation. Feb 29, 2016
David Baltz
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] Except for one horrendously bad section of rock on the Cowcatcher, the rock quality in the Cirque of the Moon is exceptional. There is a single grassy camping spot in the entire cirque large enough for about two tents. The rest of the cirque is a boulder field. This area will not handle crowds! Jul 6, 2016