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Routes in Tuefelstalwand

Alpentraum S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pissoir du Diable 6b T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeichen der Freundschaft 6b+ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elevation: 5,843 ft
GPS: 46.65, 8.597 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 729 total, 10/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Dec 26, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn
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Description

An extraordinary well hidden west-facing wall in the Tuefelstal, a deep, narrow side gorge that opens into the larger Schoellenen gorge.

Although very close to Andermatt and the noisy road through the Schoellenen gorge, the area is tranquil and secluded.

The area was brought to life in the past few years with the opening of several new lines.

The rock is a very high quality granite, is steep and is laced with splitter cracks.

As the gorge is very deep and very narrow, even in high summer the lower half of the climbs have limited sunlight. As such, the routes are best climbed when temperatures are amicable. Early in the spring there is snow in the base of the gorge, which could present access challenges.

Getting There

The area is accessed via an abseilpiste down the opposing, east-facing wall.

To access the abseilpiste, drive (or take the train) up the Oberalp pass road from Andermatt. Park (or get off the train) at Naetschen. Follow the unpaved military road that crosses over the train tracks, heading north. At the first 180 degree curve in this road (elevation 1880m), descend on a marked trail with a sign towards Bannwald Chilchenberg. After descending around 50 vertical meters, the path climbs a bit again, heading to the north/east. Look for a marking with "Ausstieg Klettersteig". Follow this to the top of the via ferrata. Perhaps 30-40 minutes in total from Naetschen.

At the top of the via ferrata, follow a faint trail to your right (towards the edge of the gorge) for 50 meters, looking for red markings on the rock and a large, chain anchor. Abseil 3x40 meters, more or less straight down - there are a series of red markings along the way to guide you. Be careful on the second abseil, there is a monster crack that doesn't let go of ropes that fall down into it. At the base of the gorge, there are fixed ropes and route markings to assist with the orientation.

When you top out, follow the trail, which has periodic red markings and fixed ropes where exposed. The trail gains a bit of elevation before making a wide arch to the south around the gorge and back to the military road. Follow the military road all the way back to Naetschen.

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