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Elevation: 9,092 ft 2,771 m
GPS: 46.5948, 8.415
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,178 total · 14/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Dec 26, 2011
Admins: Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn

Description Suggest change

Choose your own adventure in this, the most quickly accessible area in the Furka region. There are several walls here, three of which are stacked, one on top of another, and separated by large terraces. Each wall has numerous multi-pitch routes, and you can mix and match as you go. One can climb all the way to the top of the Gross Furkahorn by these means, stringing together 12 or more pitches.

Note: large snow fields often remain on the various terraces through the summer. Most routes are not impacted, but the Joshi sector and some of the lines in the third wall (Sidelenwand) are only (fully) dry in the mid/late autumn. It is possible to bypass the sidelenwand up a gully to the left of the wall.

The rock quality is, like everywhere else in the Furka region, superb. The lower walls (Kristall, Joschi, Heavy Metal) tend to be more slabby, although there are some superb crack lines. The lower part of the middle wall (Sidelenwand) steepens up and offers superb climbing on highly featured stone. Same goes for the uppermost wall (Gipfelwand).

The entire area is south facing, and gets sun from fairly early in the morning until late in the afternoon.

It is fairly popular, although most traffic is concentrated in the Kristall sector.

Many of the routes are fully bolted. On a few, a bit of supplementary gear is recommended. There are a number of routes, particularly in the lower Sidelenwand (Milchstrasse, Camel Tropy) for which a wide assortment of cams and stoppers needs to be brought.

A topo with virtually all routes can be found in the plaisir-ost guidebook.
Given the density of routes, there are belays everywhere, making the descent a total no-brainer.

Getting There Suggest change

The approach begins from the top of the Furka pass, initially following the trail towards the Sidelen hut. At the small bridge, do not cross over the stream, but break left and follow a faint trail which runs alongside the water all the way to the base of the glacier that feeds it. Ascend the glacier to the base (easy, normally possible in regular shoes).

The total approach time is around 45 minutes, with extremely limited vertical.

2 Total Climbs

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Location: Gross Furkahorn - Wandfussplatten Change
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