Mckenzie Pond Boulders Climbing
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DescriptionBest bouldering in the Adirondacks. Located on county road 33 (McKenzie Pond Road) near saranac lake and lake placid. The pull off is right across the road from an old abandoned barn. There are four sets of boulders. Nearly every problem is of good quality. Nothing harder than V10. Most of the rock is sharp and clean. Landings are nearly all perfectly safe. There are a decent number of problems that are higher than is typical in other areas. If a second pad is "required" it is usually noted in the description of the route. Some problems such as Time Will Tell on the Second Set have horrible landings, but, with enough pads, are protectable enough to be safe, and are totally awesome climbs worth bringing the extra gear back for.
McKenzie Pond draws people in from all over the place, but overall, I wouldn't call the pond a stand alone destination for a visit from a substantial distance. If you were up in the Adirondacks and felt like a day of bouldering, you will be very pleasantly surprised. If you are relatively nearby though, it is definitely a place worth becoming familiar with. Very nice spot to change the pace of jamming the great cracks in Keene.
There is an older guide published here. The area was also covered in the first edition of Adirondack Rock, and is in the current bouldering guidebook.
Getting ThereThe traditional pull off is right across the road from the old Hunt farmhouse. The pull off will be on your right coming from Lake Placid, and on your left coming from Saranac lake. The first set of boulders is visible from the pull off. The boulders of each set are pretty close together, with relatively short trails connecting each of the sets. There are trails to the first three sets. The fourth set is not currently documented, and does not have a trail from the third set, but the rock back there is mostly clean, pretty tall, and worth checking out if you feel like some exploring. It is located a couple minutes east and downhill from the boulders in the Third Set.
Update Oct 2013: The Essex County Highway Dep. has created a new designated parking area for the McKenzie Pond Boulders. They have put up No Parking signs where the traditional parking for the boulders has been. The new parking is still on just the shoulder of the road but it is on the opposite side from the boulders and a little bit closer to Saranac Lake. The new parking area is signed and is about 150ft. away from the traditional parking area. The county is working to make access still possible while trying to keep cars off the road that create a traffic hazard. The county is going to be adding more gravel to make the shoulder not as soft as it is now and to allow for even more cars. PLEASE use this new designated parking area.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mckenzie Pond Boulders
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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