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Routes in Malinevaya Ushelia / Raspberry Canyon

Route 1 T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 2 T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route 3 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 5,972 ft
GPS: 42.681, 74.559 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 525 total · 7/month
Shared By: Amadeus on Dec 22, 2011
Admins: Amadeus
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Description

This canyon is an old crag that doesn't see a lot of traffic anymore. All the bolts have been chopped, but you can still set up a top rope and climb your heart out. The potential is there to put up some super intimidating routes on some really overhanging rock that has zero grip. Enjoy climbing on one of Kyrgyzstan's oldest crags!

Getting There

Go up Prospect Mira (Manas) towards Ala Archa. At Kashka Suu you will need to turn left into the village off the main road. There are no road signs, so good luck. Then follow the road towards the mountains. You will cross a small river and keep towards the mountains. Once you make it up to the mountains, turn left on the road that goes by a bunch of Dachas, and you will come to another small stream. Turn right and try your best to make it as far up this road as you can. From there its just another 10 minute hike to get to the crag. Good luck finding the place!!

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Photos

Amadeus
Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Amadeus   Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan  
Once you are at the area, you will notice a large overhanging prow at the very top of the wall. This is what you will need to build a large sling over and then using two locking biners to secure a top rope and a rappel rope, clip into the rappel rope, swing out (its a big swing) and rappel down. Not for the faint of heart!! There are a couple of pitons stuck in the rock up there that you could rap off of instead, but I have absolutely no idea how long those have been there...This place desperately needs bolts again! Dec 23, 2011

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