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Routes in Castle

African Swallow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
As You Wish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Fezzik T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grayskull V1- 5-
Holy Hand Grenade T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inconceivable T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mekaneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orko T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Skelator T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trojan Rabbit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Elevation: 3,500 ft
GPS: 43.989, -121.039 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,391 total · 45/month
Shared By: mebbing on Nov 3, 2011
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

Description

At 2.9 miles in along sandy trail, this group of 10 to 25 feet high castle-passage-like basalt cliffs are seldom visited by climbers. This ring of cliffs have great potential for a huge number of short climbs ranging in difficulty from super-easy to technical and crimpy or even juggy and overhanging. Most of the climbing rock is generally solid and surprisingly clean, but the the top of the cliffs are commonly loose and some aspects and overhangs hold more moss/dirt/animal-poo than others.

A top-rope anchor could be made off a tree here or there, or with trad gear in cracks at the top of many routes, BUT due the short nature of the climbs, some soft sandy landings, and common loose rock on top of most climbs, for many climbers bouldering may be MUCH more ideal than roped climbing.

Camping is allowed in the area, but there is no water or restrooms available in this high desert wilderness.

Getting There

Head East out of Bend on US Highway 20 for about 17 miles. There are two signed turn-offs on your left for the Oregon Badlands Wilderness. Take the first signed turnoff for Flatiron Rock Trail.

Hike 2.5 miles to Flatiron Rock. On the NE corner of Flatiron Rock turn right (east) onto the Castle trail for about 0.4 miles more to Castle.

10 Total Climbs

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