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03. The Beach

New Hampshire > WM: Waterville… > Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge

Description

Good mostly about fifty foot slabbing in a beautiful location. This is a great hideout from the hikers chattering above. This area is very open and receives full sun for most of the day. Gear is necessary to set up a belay but otherwise the routes are mostly well protected with bolts.

Getting There

Above and right of "The Ocean", and below the hiking trail. Rap down from an eye bolt just below the hiking trail.[ NOTE: A COMMENT reports: .[..The "Beach Eybolt is..] somewhat under a small flake, this brings you directly to the anchor above the Beach RHall Admin.]  Or climb Boat Ramp and belay on the right.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 5
The Big Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Highway Star
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Goosebumps
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Slab Therapy
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Spinning Wheels
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Dead Toe
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 3
The Watercourse
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Big Crack
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Highway Star
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Goosebumps
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Slab Therapy
 7
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Spinning Wheels
 7
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Dead Toe
 12
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Watercourse
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This one has a few areas. I am posting it in separate areas so that topo info can be added.
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All of the routes traverse back to the common anchor above Slab Therapy (5.10) I didn't draw that in cause it would look even more cluttered 
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Left to right:
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The Big Crack 5.6 
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Highway Star 5.9
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Goose Bumps 5.9
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Slab Therapy 5.10 
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Spinning Wheels 5.11b/c
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Dead Toe 5.8
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The Watercourse 5.5
[Hide Photo] This one has a few areas. I am posting it in separate areas so that topo info can be added. All of the routes traverse back to the common anchor above Slab Therapy (5.10) I didn't draw that in c…
Following Slab Therapy at the Beach in mid October. AP with photo cred.
[Hide Photo] Following Slab Therapy at the Beach in mid October. AP with photo cred.
Big Crack and 5 of 6 bolts of Highway Star [ yellow]  Orange .."Goose Bumps"??  (sorry, no "B" tool, so "P" instead   Photo taken while rapping from the top eyebolts)
[Hide Photo] Big Crack and 5 of 6 bolts of Highway Star [ yellow] Orange .."Goose Bumps"?? (sorry, no "B" tool, so "P" instead Photo taken while rapping from the top eyebolts)
Just beautiful!
[Hide Photo] Just beautiful!
The Beach
[Hide Photo] The Beach
this is a topo of all the routes in The Beach area. Tom and Jay's routes are the three left ones
[Hide Photo] this is a topo of all the routes in The Beach area. Tom and Jay's routes are the three left ones
Eye bolt near the trail
[Hide Photo] Eye bolt near the trail