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Areas in WM: Waterville Valley

Bald Knob 5 / 0 / 5 / 60 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 66
Cone Head Ledge 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Dickey Notch 15 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Goodrich Rock Trail 5 / 0 / 3 / 52 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 56
Greeley Ponds 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Mount Osceola Summit 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Mount Osceola Trail Crags 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Noon Peak 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Smarts Brook Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Welch and Dickie Area 44 / 12 / 1 / 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 81

Description

Waterville Valley could rightfully be considered a climbing backwater. Most climbers are content to stare at the impressive Dickey Ledge, high on Dickey Mountain, and clearly visible from Interstate 93. Few, however, make the commitment to hike up there and climb on it. It makes sense that Waterville Valley receives so little attention from climbers, given that Cannon Cliff is just up the road, Rumney is fifteen minutes to the west, and North Conway is just an hour away.

Those who commit to hike the mile up to Dickey Ledge are rewarded with absolutely perfect granite and amazing mountain views. Dickey Ledge feels like a little piece of Joshua Tree that has been transplanted to the White Mountains. The slabs are long and exposed, and the cracks are short, steep, and vicious.

While Dickey Ledge receives probably 90% of the climbing traffic, others are content to scour the hills and mountains for more rock. There's a lot of rock out there: some of it is good, some of it is terrible, and some of it is completely inaccessible. But people keep looking, hoping to stumble upon the next Main Cliff, but more likely finding solitude, beautiful mountain views, and a profound respect for the uniqueness of the Waterville Valley area.

Getting There

Most of the climbing is accessed from Highway 49, which is Exit 28 of Interstate 93.

237 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Waterville Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2+ 5+
Tomahawk
Boulder
V3 6A
The Bottom Falls Out
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
Thank You for Holding
Boulder
V4 6B
Circle Circle
Boulder
V4 6B
Double Heelix
Boulder
V5 6C
Mayhem
Boulder
V5 6C
Trillium
Boulder
V5-6 6C+ R
The Thanksgiver
Boulder
V7 7A+
We Who Wander
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Stack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lurking in the Bushes
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Subversive Behavior
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hermits Hideout
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Brain Cramp
Trad
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
The Horcrux
Sport
Tomahawk Goodrich Rock Trail > … > Discovery Valley > Discovery Boulder V2+ 5+ Boulder
The Bottom Falls Out Bald Knob > Yellowjacket Area > Yellowjacket Boulder V3 6A Boulder
Thank You for Holding Bald Knob > … 1 > Hive > Holds Boulder V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Circle Circle Goodrich Rock Trail > … > Central Davis > Corridor Boulders V4 6B Boulder
Double Heelix Goodrich Rock Trail > … > Central Davis > Widowmaker Area V4 6B Boulder
Mayhem Goodrich Rock Trail > … > Central Davis > Mayhem Boulder V5 6C Boulder
Trillium Bald Knob > Yellowjacket Area > Yellowjacket Boulder V5 6C Boulder
The Thanksgiver Goodrich Rock Trail > … > Central Davis > Corridor Boulders V5-6 6C+ R Boulder
We Who Wander Welch and Dickie… > … > Lower Bowl > Wander Boulder V7 7A+ Boulder
Half Stack Welch and Dickie… > Dickey Ledge > Dark Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Lurking in the Bushes Welch and Dickie… > Dickey Ledge > Dark Side 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Subversive Behavior Welch and Dickie… > Dickey Ledge > Ocean 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Hermits Hideout Welch and Dickie… > Dickey Ledge > Dark Side 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Brain Cramp Welch and Dickie… > Dickey Ledge > Ocean 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
The Horcrux Welch and Dickie… > Dickey Ledge > S America Wall 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in WM: Waterville Valley »

Weather Averages

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Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Just keep believing that Mark... :) Nov 13, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
"But people keep looking, hoping to stumble upon the next Main Cliff..."

Dude, it is out there. It is like a diamond in the rough, just waiting to be cut free, lol. Nov 13, 2012
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I rewrote the description above so that it refers more generally to the whole Waterville area. Bradley, I took your description, which seemed like it was mostly related to Cone Head, and added all of it as a comment under Cone Head Mountain. Nov 13, 2012
bradley white   Bend
The largest and dangerous walking through them boulder field I have been to is below a south east cliff band. Most of the furthest south cliff is sheered off. Below it in the woods are large boulders. Very dark area and we walked on top of them.
We got to there by being first on the Greeley Pond trail from Waterville Valley side. A lot of this should be open to biking in and maybe all of it. A ways up the trail is the main logging rd heading left uphill. Take that rd until it ends. Shortly before it ends you see the cliff. A short scramble right through some pine roots on top of scree field rocks brings you to the base. From here, there is about 1/4+ mile of walking at the banded cliffs bases. The cliff band gets shorter head north. Its got a nice view. I wouldn't consider it for bouldering in the forest. I and we were not looking for boulders. We were looking fo good climbing granite.
There are many boulders here with the correct granite grain. Below the scree like at Cannon cliff. Dangerous because someone almost fell down from the top of them. Those forest covered boulders have cave in steps for a unknowingly person. That person could end up between two large boulders going down fast. Nov 3, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I remember coming in from the Kanc,,, Osceola trail ??? A bit of bushy-ness. I guess you could go in from below. Most of the bike access is off limits now. Oct 31, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
What trail would these boulders be located on? I would love to check out the boulders too! Oct 30, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Sweet! I hope to take a hike in there before the snow sticks and have a look. I hear it is nice fresh, non rotten rock. Oct 30, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
More than huge mark, and so many Oct 30, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
South of the ridge line from Mount Osceola and East peak is supposed to be loaded with massive boulders Oct 29, 2012
bradley white   Bend
Thanks for clearing the authorship up and your welcome to edit it. Make the whole area the best article it can be. Tom Bowker's knowledge to approaches of crags would be beneficial to most areas. It is a huge amount of land to describe and then the climbing.
Cone Head, I am becoming more skeptical to it being permissible. It has been many years since I got permission. The crag is a nightmare of dangerous rock surfaces. On many climbs protection is a joke because of the crags high mica content in the rock. For some reason it became a favorite place to climb and never mind just place pro. Kept on trying to find a decent protected route though and came up with two or three. The owner lives directly below. I recommend he is informed of your presence. Don't go up without a note on your car why you are on his land. Oct 20, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Bradley, I copied some of your information from here and included it in the Conehed section in quotes. I think it helps fill out the understanding that it is a leave no trace crag on private property. Oct 10, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
That sounds like a job for you, with your English skills, Jay. With some willing collaboration we can get good clear information for this area. Tom Bowker would be one to ask if he could add to Bradley's work. Oct 10, 2012
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Well, whatever's going on, I think Waterville needs a better description than what's above, as the above description refers directly to Cone Head Mountain, and not Waterville as a general area. Bradley, what if we integrate your description above into Cone Head? Someone then should write up a description of Waterville in general. Oct 10, 2012
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
non applicable comments...what dose this mean? dose it mean that his comments had swears in them? Oct 10, 2012
bradley white   Bend
Two wrongs, blew my mind. That lit the fuse too burn. Especially the disinformation. The 7+ cracks photos are way wrong.
I'm going to leave up this exasperated comment because my psyche or I am off the wall and gets pleased sometimes with its over active imagination. I knew there was going to be trouble when Cone Head Mt. was entered by another member as an area.
The submission, appearance is all there is. I don't appear as the submitter author and shit happens. I don't want to control the area again. I like its set up and it should stay as it is. I got Waterville Valley percolating in 09. That was cool and this would not have happened without MP. Oct 9, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Bradley, in all honesty i don't understand what you mean here... did your entry get changed? i am listed as the submitter but i didn't write it and i don't know how that happened... if you can tell me simply what the problem is perhaps i can help fix it... Oct 3, 2012
bradley white   Bend
This is my original writing or authorship members are reading for this area and more.
This area and more I gave to MP. to own. Giving ownership to my climbing experiences is okay. Here it will remain, correct historically and I can see myself like I am on T.V.
I knew MP could do what they wanted with it. My shit, the most shit on Waterville Valley, that I gave, out. Has the updated submitter, appearing as the authorship been to all those places I submitted earlier? Done any climbing there? Then remove my writing also. I don't have access to what was mine anymore, the edit properties. I lost that during the update. Write from your own experiences now, please. I feel like a ghost writer and don't like it. This past year the writing stayed and I disappeared for a while. I am back writing a lot about it because we are together again. Verbalizing!
Why did my submitted area leave during the update?
How many updates are happening right now like this(I doubt I am the only person or member experiencing omission after an update)?
Does the update person or members earn the same area points for an area updated this way? That would be quite corrupted.
Absolute power corrupts absolutely
Well,
None the less is where I came from or knowing more and sharing nothing about it, can be back for now. I won't regain much now, just a little dignity, all of my authorship is incorruptible, and I have gained a few comment points.
Those have no value to them now because I have lost trust in MP currently. It used to back up it membership's communal effort. I tried to get through to a top member once also. Repeatedly, no reply. Isn't he a wise guy.
Seems administration at MP is updated things in 2011.
Update this. I Got here by accident today. Now an Unfortunate incident of plagiarizers but, not, because I agreed to this in signing up for MP membership. Come on, this isn't as far as you can go. Put your names onto my route descriptions. Complete the set.
I think for a while I will give comments only to be owned by MP. Militaristic policy, here is my first comment, Your'e too much. Oct 2, 2012
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
Dickey has the highest concentration of routes. Some incredibly steep slab climbing in addition to steep cracks and moderate slabs.
John Strand, I think you'd love the place! May 8, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
BITD Scottie Stevenson told me about a slab at Welch/Dickey that hecould not TR ! never got to it,any ideas ?????? Feb 8, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Tom, which of the crags do you think has the highest concentration of climbing? What do you think is the best single route? Aug 26, 2009
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
For the adventurous climber Warerville Valley has a wealth of remote crags. :) Aug 26, 2009

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