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Routes in Galatinani

Calcite Star S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Calcite Star Plus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crispy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Feuerdorn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gegoune S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
K44 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Perceuse A Dede S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nymfi S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Zero Chichon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Description

They should have just called this area, "Blowjobs." It's that good.

Granted, this sector may not be as great as the Grand Grotto. Nevertheless, Galatiani gives it just as good. Almost tufa good. And oh, does it photograph well, so bring cameras. Even graduates from the Ray Charles school of photography snap Pulitzers here.

The gray slabbier stuff on the sides is reportedly sharp and crappy; but you didn't hump up to Galatiani for the slabs. Put on your pucker shoes, and get ready to rumble on some of the planet's finest, steepest, friendliest tufa climbing. This sector, this right here, is why you came to Kalymnos. Why you came ON Kalymnos.

Getting There

Head north out of Masouri and round the corner at Dolphin Bay. Quickly! Look left across the water! See that orange sphincter at the base of a massive gray wall? Galatiani, baby. You want in that hole. Keep driving 1.7 km past Arginonta, at the sweeping u-bend at the very bottom of the hill. Drive over the idiot goats daydreaming in the road and park when you see you're directly under the cave.

Fair warning: The path is 8b steep and technical. And because of the Eurozone debt crisis and the recent austerity measures taken in Greece, switchbacks have been put on deep backorder. Get ready for a slog.

Also, this south-facing wall (including the cave) gets blasted with sun a lot earlier than the 1 o'clock that the guidebook suggests. Bakes more than a Phish concert freaker. Alpine starts or cloudy days are recommended.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Galatinani

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nymfi
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zero Chichon
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Nymfi 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Zero Chichon 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
The cave actually holds shade a lot longer than 1 pm in July. We left at 1 pm and the cave was still fully shaded. We went and got lunch in Emporios and came back and drove past around 2 pm and it was still shaded (not sure about the belays though...). It is blocked by the north breeze though, so go on a really windy day and it should work out. Aug 1, 2017
RyanO
sunshine
RyanO   sunshine
This description is BANG ON! Couldn't have said it better myself.. Nov 3, 2013

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