PRINT: Climbing in Baker Mountain, Adirondacks

Baker Mountain

New York > Adirondacks > K: Northern Region

Description

Baker Mountain is a small peak right outside Saranac Lake with a small cliff on its western flank that offers a nice quiet spot for top-roping and hanging out. Most of the climbs can be led with good protection as well. One of the major attractions of this cliff is that it has something for everybody(unless you climb harder than 5.12).

Getting There

The trailhead is located on the NE side of Moody Pond. Starting on Rt 3 in Saranac Lake, driving toward Lake Placid, continue straight onto Brandy Brook Lane at the unconventional intersection near the NBT Bank. Cross the railroad tracks and turn left onto Pine St. After crossing the railroad tracks again turn right on Forest Hill Ave. Continue down Forest Hill Ave to Moody Pond and park on the far side near the trailhead.

Near the beginning, the trail splits and the main hiking trail(red markers) goes to the summit. The trail to get to the cliffs continues straight. Follow the trail for about 10 minutes to a small herd path(marked with a small cairn) on the left just past a marshy area.

Follow the herd path on the left for a couple minutes to reach the base of the cliff.

Follow it to the right to reach the top.

The trails are now faint so keep an eye on your watch to avoid overshooting the turn off or check the updated location on the map and new access trail added to this area for ease of use. Cell service is spotty but works with AT&T.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 4 ● Bubba Does Baker Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 9 ● Cure Cottage Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 24 ● TB or Not TB Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 7 ● Scarynac Crack Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 17 ● Easy Edge Trad, TR
WI3 4 ● Baker Chimney Ice

● Bubba Does Baker

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad

● Cure Cottage

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● TB or Not TB

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR

● Scarynac Crack

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Easy Edge

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR

● Baker Chimney

WI3 Ice

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Coming down from the tree rappel, Cure Cottage is near his back.

The view up top, watch rope drag for the routes

"Bomber" tree rappel, can be done free hanging, TB or Not TB and Cure Cottage are just out of sight on the right.

Anchors at the shelf above the cliff

The blue dot I dropped on google maps to help me find the cliff for the first time

This is the section at the top of the cliff you scramble down to reach the anchor shelf

The view lookin down

The top with a bolted anchor

Cottage Cure and TB or Not TB, on the Main Face, close the where the trail hits the cliff. The big rap tree is just out of sight at the top left.

The correct trail to cliff, this what you should see as you leave the main trail. Expect a 4 min hike as you go down a valley, then up the other side to get to cliff face.

The correct approach trail turns left at, the book on fallen tree, other pic should confirm what you should see.

Steven St.Pierre at Baker Cliffs. <br>
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This is a Saranac Lake local crag with great cracks and face climbs. Everything from a srambly 5.6 to a stout 5.10d

Steven St.Pierre at Baker Cliffs. This is a Saranac Lake local crag with great cracks and face climbs. Everything from a srambly 5.6 to a stout 5.10d

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY

Be careful of loose rock on top of the cliff. Every time I've been there it seems to be a problem. Oct 12, 2011

Ian Dibbs
Lake Placid

Approach beta ... when following the approach directions given here, and in Adirondack Rock guide book .... be warned, At typical hiking speeds, 8-10 min up the trail is a boggy area, with fallen trees, and a trail going left, which is NOT the cliff trail. Continue hiking uphill another 5 minutes to the correct trail, I posted a couple pictures which should help identify the correct trail ... Jul 18, 2017

Ian Dibbs
Lake Placid

There is a rappelling set-up on the tree of the main descent point. The tree serves the main face (TB or not TB, Cure Cottage), the tree is a monster and is "bomber". The tree is on the same ledge as top of Easy Edge, if you seek an easy way up.
If rapping off of draws, off of the bolts on the "main ledge", (TB Cottage Cure) ..... the rap goes over the protrusion to the left of Cottage Cure and is free hanging. It's position makes an excellent "photo-op" .... if you want a great "free hanging rappel" picture . Aug 15, 2017

Hudson Hyams
Lake Placid, NY

Good crag to wear your helmet at. Lots of falling rocks. Aug 14, 2020

Kasey Nesselrotte
Oxford, FL

We followed the directions for finding the route but missed the herd path because we didn't see a cairn or other noticeable sign. Using a pin I dropped on google maps we were able to find the path and cliff but then missed the split in the herd path and ended up at the top first when we actually wanted to see the routes from the base of the cliff. Not a big but watch your gps. Getting down the section at the top of the cliff to reach the anchor shelf is definitely the scariest part lol. Being wildly inexperienced with outdoor climbing we sent the gear down with rope and scrambled down after to the anchor shelf. Amazing view and really good quality set of anchors that serve all the routes. After that the climbing was fantastic and I highly recommend since there is something for everyone. Cell service was in and out up to the cliff and great once we reached it. Helmets are necessary with all the loose rocks at the anchor ledge. Aug 22, 2022

Kyle Turgeon
Rosendale, NY

awesome little spot! easy approach,gorgeous rock, no bugs. great moderate rock, easy lead to get to top, with a bunch of TR opportunities off two bomber bolts. highly recommend Jul 29, 2024