Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Upper Major Mass & Jungle Gym Tower

Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 05 - Po… > 3. Doorway Rocks - Ma…

Description

The sunny upper level of Major Mass and Jungle Gym Tower are at the foot of the Devil's Doorway.

Unfortunately this is a popular overlook for kids to throw rocks from, and there is usually a bit of trash strewn along the ledge at the base of the upper level. Please bring a trash bag!

Getting There

Hike up the Potholes or Balanced Rock trails, then out the side trail to Devil's Doorway. Several of the TR setups are from the shelf that the Doorway sits on. To get around to the base, head East from the Doorway. Head down the first tree-filled gully to your right, where there is a use-trail.

Stay fairly well to skier's right of this major gully. The hard part is figuring out where to cut right around the rocky ridge. Step up onto a flat boulder on the ridge, then back down to the shelf on the other side. Once around the corner you should be able to tell if you are in the right place.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
● Dances with FIBs
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 27
● Jungle Gym
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 7
● Jungle Gym East Face
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 3
● Cannabis Sativa
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 11
● W.A.R
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 19
● Cedar Tree Wall
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
● Grandpa's Second Wind (5.11R)
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 9
● Indecision
Trad, TR
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 4
● Rosemary's Baby
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
● Mary Jane
Trad, TR
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 1
● Corner Crack
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 2
● Corner Crack Face
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 81
● Jolly Roger
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 60
● Angel's Crack
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 21
● Faith, Hope, and Charity
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 1
● The Crypt Variation
Trad, TR
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 4
● The Crypt
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 4
● Hidden Wall
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
● Three Kings
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 2
● End of the Line
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Dances with FIBs
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Jungle Gym
 27
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
● Jungle Gym East Face
 7
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
● Cannabis Sativa
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, TR
● W.A.R
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, TR
● Cedar Tree Wall
 19
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● Grandpa's Second Wind (5.11R)
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Indecision
 9
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
● Rosemary's Baby
 4
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad, TR
● Mary Jane
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Corner Crack
 1
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad, TR
● Corner Crack Face
 2
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
● Jolly Roger
 81
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Angel's Crack
 60
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● Faith, Hope, and Charity
 21
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
● The Crypt Variation
 1
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
● The Crypt
 4
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad
● Hidden Wall
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, TR
● Three Kings
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● End of the Line
 2
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Major Mass and its maze of access trails with some of the climbing routes marked for reference.
[Hide Photo] Major Mass and its maze of access trails with some of the climbing routes marked for reference.
Jolly Roger and the Crypt area.
[Hide Photo] Jolly Roger and the Crypt area.
The Three Kings and End of the Line. The first climbs on the east end of the upper band.
[Hide Photo] The Three Kings and End of the Line. The first climbs on the east end of the upper band.
Mary Jane and Rosemary's Baby.
[Hide Photo] Mary Jane and Rosemary's Baby.
This is a minor wall between Mary Jane and Jolly Roger. The S/M diagram on p. 149 appears to put #23 where I've drawn it here. I'm not sure if this is the same as either Corner Crack Face, or Corner Crack. The left side of this wall is a kinda dirty.
[Hide Photo] This is a minor wall between Mary Jane and Jolly Roger. The S/M diagram on p. 149 appears to put #23 where I've drawn it here. I'm not sure if this is the same as either Corner Crack Face, or Corne…
Indecision and Split Decision. Swartling/Mayer says Indecision has two distinct lines, but most climbers zigzag. <br> <br> Vamos Ala Kama doesn't look too interesting, but it is a named climb in S/M and the description is simply "Crack".
[Hide Photo] Indecision and Split Decision. Swartling/Mayer says Indecision has two distinct lines, but most climbers zigzag. Vamos Ala Kama doesn't look too interesting, but it is a named climb in S/M and…
Cedar Tree Wall, Cannabis Sativa. <br> <br> Knower's book named the War Cedar variation which combines the 2 cracks into the "best line on the wall" and avoids the sap on the lower half of Cedar Tree Wall (aka Crack).
[Hide Photo] Cedar Tree Wall, Cannabis Sativa. Knower's book named the War Cedar variation which combines the 2 cracks into the "best line on the wall" and avoids the sap on the lower half of Cedar Tree Wall…
Jungle Gym East Face
[Hide Photo] Jungle Gym East Face
Jungle Gym and Dances With Fibs. <br> <br> The starts of these climbs are farther down, but ya can't get a decent pic from down there with all the pine trees.
[Hide Photo] Jungle Gym and Dances With Fibs. The starts of these climbs are farther down, but ya can't get a decent pic from down there with all the pine trees.
Jungle Gym Tower, a sea of oak trees, and the South Bluff
[Hide Photo] Jungle Gym Tower, a sea of oak trees, and the South Bluff