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Routes in Handley Rock Park

Left Offwidth TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lower bouldering cave V3 6A
Pocket Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Of Crack 1 S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Of Crack 2 TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Right Of Crack 3 S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Bouldering Cave V3 6A R
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Elevation: 510 ft
GPS: 37.466, -122.269 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,362 total · 155/month
Shared By: Miles C on Sep 25, 2011 with updates from Peter Monks
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

A medium-large rock located in the middle of a fairly hilly residential area. Bouldering, sport, and TR climbs exist. The park is private property, although the Access Fund established an easement in the early 1990s specifically for climbing. This easement limit climbers to 8 maximum in the park at a time, and only between sunrise and sunset - staying in the park after dark is illegal, and trespassers are actively prosecuted! Local landowners are generally supportive of climbers, but have had substantial problems with non-climbers misusing the park. Please be considerate and spend 15 minutes at the end of your day picking up trash and packing it out - in addition to creating a nicer climbing experience it goes a long way to preserving good relations with the local community and the land manager. The closure on the third weekend of every month was removed some years ago. The HRA may still close the park temporarily when graffiti / drunken vandalism gets too out of hand, but that's on an as-needed basis, and is not intended to prevent climbing (the HRA are generally happy with / supportive of climbers, especially if they help manage the trash situation). The rock is sandstone similar to that in the castle rock area. There are a decent variety of routes, ranging from 5.7 to 5.12, plus bouldering up to v6.

Getting There

Handley Rock park is located in a neighborhood off the Edgewood Rd. exit from 280 near Redwood city. A GPS or very detailed map is almost necessary to navigate the labyrinth of streets nearby. The rock is literally ten feet from the small parking area.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Handley Rock Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 9
Left Offwidth
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Pocket Face
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Right Of Crack 1
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left Offwidth
 9
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c TR
Pocket Face
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Right Of Crack 1
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Handley Rock Park »

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It's too bad that there isn't more info out there on this crag. Here's some of what you need to know:

1 - There's an unfortunate amount of graffiti and trash on the rock

2 - Top rope access is to the left of the rock as you approach from the parking area, before you actually start to go around the monolith

3 - Technically there are sport climbs here, but I wouldn't trust ANY of the bolts if someone paid me

4 - The bolting at the top is really weird. Some super-solid bolts, some spinners, some small rusty bits, and most routes only have a single bolt. I backed everything up, although it was difficult to back up certain routes. (The routes with a single bolt have 3/4" x 6" construction eye bolts, but still... one bolt doesn't do it for me.)

5 - Cool caves. Check them out. Dec 12, 2011
Arthur Eigenbrot
Denver, CO
Arthur Eigenbrot   Denver, CO
Thanks for adding this, Yair! This is a great little spot with some fun and challenging climbs. Great description, the only things I would add:

1). If you're feeling nice bring along a trash bag and pick up some trash while you're there.

2). I wouldn't even list Sport as a possibility here. All the bolts are super rusted and some are hanging half way out of their holes!

3). Park is at the intersection of Sylvan Way and Handley Trail, for those using Google Maps. Dec 21, 2011
Pierson Bourquin
San Francisco, California
Pierson Bourquin   San Francisco, California
I would offer Handley Rock is a diamond in the rough. It needs to be picked up, for sure!! But, I enjoyed the crack climb to the left of the cave on the South side and the face climb to the right of the cave also.

I understand SheClimbs Bay Area is doing a clean up this Saturday 11/16/13. Way to go SheClimbs!!! Nov 13, 2013
Handley Rock is still more valuable as a cozy neighborhood picnic spot and kids discovery area than a climbing area. Locals hold this place dear and they are protective. Climbers play an important role in protecting the area, keeping it clean, and discouraging the too common graffiti and broken glass. Always be courteous of the neighbors, be no louder than necessary, and have fun. This spot is the only one of it's kind. Oct 1, 2018

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