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Jug Wall - CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Rock Climbing

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	Jug Massacre - PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ode to Doda - PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

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Elevation:	6,341 ft
GPS:	42.133, -113.675 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,727 total · 23/month
Shared By:	Matt Schroer on Sep 18, 2011
Admins:	GRK, Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Due to COVID 19, please be respectful of the residents of Almo. Wear a mask when indoors at places like Rock City or the Visit. (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP Details

(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails.

The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.

(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.

Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.

See this link from the Access Fund for additional info and maps: accessfund.org/open-gate-bl…

The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…

Access Issue: Jug Wall is on BLM land and is PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Details

Description

The north face of this seldom visited,secluded granite crag is chock full of juggy huecos and classic "city" patina. Most established lines are traditional, due to BLM sanctioning of no new bolts or anchors at this time. However, the 5.8 moderate clip up "Jug Massacre" is a must do for any climbing junky looking for a good pump on a really fun line. Morning and early afternoon shade.

Getting There

For the adventurous. Refer to the Castle Rock climbing guide by Dave Bingham (check out Rock City for copies). The best approach is from the southeast/Johnson creek trail. Be prepared to be a bit creative on this "trail". 30-45 minutes from the castle rock parking lot.