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Zappa's Tooth

Colorado > Estes Park Valley > CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries

Description

Zappa's Tooth is a 175' high secluded crag with really good rock and an outstanding view of the Allenspark valley, Mt. Meeker, and Wild Basin. Since it faces west, it enjoys afternoon sun and at 9,100' is perfect for the roasting days of summer. Route locations are generally listed with reference to "the Cavity", which is the large recessed alcove in the center-left of the face. The character of this rock is really full of features. The steep sections are often easier than they look. Knobular protuberances are everywhere.

There is still some development left to be done here too, so the adventurous aspect of FAs has not yet been exhausted. Fixed anchors, if any are required, should be placed from the ground up. Think Zappaesque. As folks have already very likely climbed these lines in the past, these are more likely VFAs than FAs.

Zappa's Tooth was born after an evening of Zappa Plays Zappa in Denver the night before the first ascents. If you're fond of Frank Zappa or fine guitar playing, you'll understand. The route names are of course Zappa tunes, etc.

L->R:

A. Flakes, 8, 1p, 125', gear.
B. What Would Frank Do?, 9, 1p, 175', gear.
C. Dirty Love, 9, 1p, 175', gear.
D. Sheik Yerbouti, 9 PG-13, 1p, 175', gear.
E. Central Scrutinizer, 9, 1p, 175', gear.
F. Titties & Beer, 8+, 1p, 150', gear.
G. Spinach is my New Lettuce, 8 PG-13, 1p, 150', gear.
H. Trouble Every Day, 8, 1p, 150', gear.

Getting There

The crag is located in proximity to The Ironclads and Punk Rock (see the map below). Take CO Highway 7 to Bunce School Road. This road has been greatly improved recently (summer 2011) due to logging activity in the area. Follow Bunce School road to the Punk Rock turn-off and follow this as far as you can. If you have a high-clearance vehicle and some skill, it's possible to drive much closer to this crag on FR 216A, possibly to within a half-mile if you have a serious rig. The road loops, but has a spur at the high point of the loop that leads to the top of the saddle behind the Ironclads. I recommend taking the left fork of the loop - some road building may be required. There is a sign at the saddle that says 216A "Dead End" (see pic below), and some cables have been placed to the right to prevent vehicles from continuing. Hang a right here and follow an old trail that leads up and over the hill to the backside of the Tooth.

EDIT 8/2019:  the spur road FR 216A no longer exists. The Forest Service closed it and attempted to obfuscate the remains by churning up the dirt. If you take the left fork of the loop, as soon as you reach the top of the hill, park. You'll see the remains of the road to your left heading S/SW. The old 216A signs are laying on the ground by a tree. The road is only obfuscated at each end, so after hiking about 50 yards, you'll be on the old road. When you reach the old cables (see the new photo below), head up the hill and slightly right to pick up the trail.

The crag is clearly visible across the valley when heading south down the hill from Allenspark.

If you find UTM coordinates much better than lat/long as I do: 13 0458248 E, 4447545 N.

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The view from Zappa's Tooth.  Allenspark is near the center of the shot.  Mt. Meeker and Wild Basin behind.
[Hide Photo] The view from Zappa's Tooth. Allenspark is near the center of the shot. Mt. Meeker and Wild Basin behind.
As of 8/2019, this is what the end of the road formerly known as FR 216A looks like.  Step over the cables, and head up hill and slightly to the right.
[Hide Photo] As of 8/2019, this is what the end of the road formerly known as FR 216A looks like. Step over the cables, and head up hill and slightly to the right.
View from the northeast.
[Hide Photo] View from the northeast.
Storms moving in over Zappa's Tooth.  The outline of Mt. Alice and the summits of Chiefshead and Pagoda visible in the distance.
[Hide Photo] Storms moving in over Zappa's Tooth. The outline of Mt. Alice and the summits of Chiefshead and Pagoda visible in the distance.
Frank Zappa<br>
1940-1993.
[Hide Photo] Frank Zappa 1940-1993.
When you see this sign, turn right, step over the cables, and find the old trail.
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EDIT 8/2019: these signs have been removed, but the cables are still there.
[Hide Photo] When you see this sign, turn right, step over the cables, and find the old trail. EDIT 8/2019: these signs have been removed, but the cables are still there.
Topo of the precise location of the crag.
[Hide Photo] Topo of the precise location of the crag.
1) Flakes, 8.<br>
2) Dirty Love, .9.<br>
3) Sheik Yerbouti, .9.<br>
4) Central Scrutinizer, .9.<br>
5) Titties & Beer, .8+.<br>
6) Spinach is my New Lettuce, .8.<br>
7) Trouble Every Day, .8.
[Hide Photo] 1) Flakes, 8. 2) Dirty Love, .9. 3) Sheik Yerbouti, .9. 4) Central Scrutinizer, .9. 5) Titties & Beer, .8+. 6) Spinach is my New Lettuce, .8. 7) Trouble Every Day, .8.
Zappa's Tooth, as viewed from CO Hwy 7 near Allenspark.
[Hide Photo] Zappa's Tooth, as viewed from CO Hwy 7 near Allenspark.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I hiked to the top and also mountain-biked by this granite tor when I lived near Allenspark, in 2003. It faces northwest and is a lightning rod on a broad high mountaintop. The approach stated in the description traverses a lot of high ground before going down to the Tooth. To reverse this approach, you must go back UP, across the mountaintop before gradually going down to the southeast, to the 4WD road. Thunderheads can build almost overhead and out of sight.

Unless you're into driving (or attempting to drive, then hiking, as we did) the ugly, gnarly, slow 4WD roads, you can hike directly from the north. From where the posted ("View from the north") Tooth photo was taken (which was really from the northeast), drive farther northwest and west on Highway 7. Park at the long scenic pullout (that has big info signs). The Tooth is out of sight from this pullout. Cross the highway and discreetly enter the forest to the south, away from posted private land. Reversing this route provides the quickest escape from threatening weather. Jul 8, 2013
Citsalp
. . . CO
[Hide Comment] Like Bill mentions, take the left fork of the loop, and like George mentions, hiking up isn't bad and is likely just as fast as driving that "road".
Once you get to the top and before the road heads back north, veer south following the path of least resistance and you'll soon be behind this crag. Drop down the south end to the base and the climbing. Dec 13, 2013
Matt Richard
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Climbed 6/29/19. No visible trails from road, so we had to trail blaze/adventure through the undergrowth to get to this cliff. The rock is covered with moss and other fungus, very clearly not climbed in over a year. Bring a brush!!! Lots of fun crack climbs and room for improvisation. My friend led and was able to place protection very easily, and toproping is possible with a 70m rope. Fantastic views of the Allenspark valley and Meeker. Jul 1, 2019
Bill Duncan
Glade Park, CO
[Hide Comment] The Forest Service removed the spur road FR 216A in 2018. You can still hike it, and it is the recommended approach, but you now have to look for "where the road used to be" and follow that. Sep 13, 2019
Doug Haller
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] If you want a "first ascent" experience without the commitment, check out this crag. Facing NW, the lichen will probably never clean up even if traffic increases. Per above approach info, avoid trespassing by approaching from the Ironclads side. Jun 28, 2020