Description

Home to several of the best ice climbing venues in the lower 48. Smugglers' Notch, Lake Willoughby, and several other small, high-quality areas offer steep, continuously sustained, ice flows--and mixed climbing--from 50 to 500' in length. Approaches can vary from drive-up cragging (Bolton Quarry) to hour-long slogs (Smugglers' Notch and Snake Mountain) up steep, snowy slopes. Regardless, Vermont has it in abundance during the winter months.

Getting There

Depending on where you want to visit, directions can be simple or quite complex. It is best to reference the specific area you want to visit, and/or buy one of the old guidebooks if you can find one.

50 Total Climbs

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Location: *Vermont Ice Climbing Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Vermont Ice Climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
 17
Last Gentleman
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI5
 5
Who's Who in Outer Space
Trad, Ice 3 pitches
WI5+ R
 6
Called on account of Rains
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI4-
 22
The Tablets Left
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
 18
Crazy Diamond
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3- M1-2 Mod. Snow PG13
 16
Jefferson Slide
Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow
WI4+ M4
 16
Ragnarock
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI3-4
 18
Hidden Gully
Trad, Ice 3 pitches
WI5+
 10
Mindbender
Trad, Ice
WI5+
 10
The Promenade
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI4
 14
Blue Room
Trad, Ice
WI4+
 23
Twenty Below Zero gully
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 17
Glass Menagerie
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 9
Dave's Snotsicle
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
 4
Dougs Route
Ice 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Last Gentleman Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 17
WI5 Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Who's Who in Outer Space Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 5
WI5 Trad, Ice 3 pitches
Called on account of Rains Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 6
WI5+ R Trad, Ice 4 pitches
The Tablets Left Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 22
WI4- Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Crazy Diamond Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 18
WI4+ Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Jefferson Slide Smugglers Notch… > 02W - Jeff Slide Area…
 16
WI3- M1-2 Mod. Snow PG13 Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow
Ragnarock Smugglers Notch… > 08E - Elephant's Head…
 16
WI4+ M4 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Hidden Gully Smugglers Notch… > 10W - The Blind Fate…
 18
WI3-4 Trad, Ice 3 pitches
Mindbender Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 10
WI5+ Trad, Ice
The Promenade Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 10
WI5+ Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Blue Room Smugglers Notch… > 13E - The S Wall Area
 14
WI4 Trad, Ice
Twenty Below Zero gully Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 23
WI4+ Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Glass Menagerie Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 17
WI5 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Dave's Snotsicle Smugglers Notch… > 13E - The S Wall Area
 9
WI3-4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Dougs Route Smugglers Notch… > 13E - The S Wall Area
 4
WI4+ Ice 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Vermont Ice Climbing »

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Photos

Nick Nak
Boulder, CO
Nick Nak   Boulder, CO
Wtf mate... Definitely some plot points that need cleaning up... No substantial ice here and other points also... moments ago