Elevation: 1,042 ft
GPS: 44.226, -72.587 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 121,788 total · 1,329/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Sep 9, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

Description

Home to several of the best ice climbing venues in the lower 48. Vermont ice is as pure, steep, and remote as any.

Smugglers' Notch, Lake Willoughby, and several other small, high-quality areas offer steep, continuously sustained, ice flows and mixed climbing rom 50 to 500 feet in length. Approaches can vary from drive-up cragging (Bolton Quarry) to hour-long slogs (Smugglers' Notch and Snake Mountain) up steep, snowy slopes. Regardless, Vermont has it in abundance during the winter months.

In a nutshell:

Lake Whilloughby: If you want to cut your teeth on WI5. Welcome to the jungle.
Smuggler's Notch: Everything from WIfun to WI5 with tons of obscure, hard mixed routes to offer.
Bristol Cliffs: Excellent two-pitch WI3/4 with a second hidden wall of WI5. Parking can be tricky.
Snake Mountain: The mysterious mixed climbing haven of New England. Routes here as hard as M13 have been established.
Bolton: Accessible toproping at the quarry as well as random multipitch strewn throughout the valley.
Wiliamstown/Brookfield: Easy roadside multipitch in a quiet setting.

Getting There

Depending on where you want to visit, directions can be simple or quite complex. It is best to reference the specific area you want to visit, and/or buy one of the old guidebooks if you can find one.

58 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: * Vermont Ice and Mixed Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Vermont Ice and Mixed

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
 20
Last Gentleman
Ice 4 pitches
WI5
 5
Who's Who in Outer Space
Ice 3 pitches
WI5+ R
 7
Called on account of Rains
Ice 4 pitches
WI4-
 22
The Tablets Left
Ice 2 pitches
WI4-5
 20
Crazy Diamond
Ice 2 pitches
WI3- M1 Mod. Snow PG13
 18
Jefferson Slide
TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow
WI4+ M4
 18
Ragnarock
Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI3-4
 19
Hidden Gully
Ice 3 pitches
WI5+
 12
Mindbender
Ice
WI5+
 13
The Promenade
Ice 4 pitches
WI4
 17
Blue Room
Ice
WI4+
 26
Twenty Below Zero gully
Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 19
Glass Menagerie
Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 14
Dave's Snotsicle
Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
 4
Dougs Route
Ice 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Last Gentleman Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 20
WI5 Ice 4 pitches
Who's Who in Outer Space Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 5
WI5 Ice 3 pitches
Called on account of Rains Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 7
WI5+ R Ice 4 pitches
The Tablets Left Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 22
WI4- Ice 2 pitches
Crazy Diamond Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 20
WI4-5 Ice 2 pitches
Jefferson Slide Smugglers Notch… > 02W - Jeff Slide Area…
 18
WI3- M1 Mod. Snow PG13 TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow
Ragnarock Smugglers Notch… > 08E - Elephant's Head…
 18
WI4+ M4 Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Hidden Gully Smugglers Notch… > 10W - The Blind Fate…
 19
WI3-4 Ice 3 pitches
Mindbender Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 12
WI5+ Ice
The Promenade Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 13
WI5+ Ice 4 pitches
Blue Room Smugglers Notch… > 13E - The S Wall Area
 17
WI4 Ice
Twenty Below Zero gully Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 26
WI4+ Ice 2 pitches
Glass Menagerie Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 19
WI5 Ice 2 pitches
Dave's Snotsicle Smugglers Notch… > 13E - The S Wall Area
 14
WI3-4 Ice 2 pitches
Dougs Route Smugglers Notch… > 13E - The S Wall Area
 4
WI4+ Ice 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Vermont Ice and Mixed »

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