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Routes in Anhangava

Travesia quinto grau S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Elevation: 4,551 ft
GPS: -25.388, -49.004 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: GMBurns on Sep 6, 2011 with updates
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden
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Description

Sunny crag with lots of high-friction granite. Not necessarily a slab climbing destination, though. There are plenty of cracks, chimneys, and off-widths along with nice and steep technical face climbs.

Mostly sport (even the cracks), but that's a function of how expensive gear is in Brasil (i.e. - don't blame the ethics).

This place can be crowded on nice weekends.

Be aware that the weather noted above is wrong for this location by several hundred miles. The weather link above is for northern Brasil, which is significantly hotter than southern Brasil.

This place it's a great sport climb area, range from 5.7 to 5.12, 100 to 130ft single pitch, abrasive and stick granite, granite, 10 quick draws you can play all they long, bolts are little bit far a part for a climb sport area, but not bad at all. Some trad routes are possible, but maybe after you try the I guess 140 routes.

Weather can change kick, bring rain jacket, food and water. One climber's posada it's available there the name is 5.13. The guys living around there are famous south american climbers and they love to chat with gringos and making new friends.

Summer it's very hot and humid and after 2:00pm rains every day (Nov to Mar) best time to go it's winter there (Jul to Set) dry season. Best place to know climbers are going to that area it's Campo Base climbing gym, for sure you can get a lift there.

Getting There

Just outside of Curitiba near a town called Quatro Barras.

Morro do Anhangava it's located 0:45 min east from Curitiba city in Parana State by car or 1:00 by bus it's (6hs south by bus from Sao Paulo).

A 30 min up hill approach and if you like to go to the top it's around 1:00h (from where you park the car) by bus around 1:45 and you can have a great view form the sierras and from Marumbi Mountain (another great area).

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