Elevation: 4,604 ft
GPS: 36.612, -118.121 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,992 total · 55/month
Shared By: Josh Cameron on Sep 5, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Getting weather forecast...

Description

What looks like a giant north and east facing boulder protruding out of the hillside offers several climbs in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. There are a couple of moderate cracks here in addition to the classic 5.11 "The Wizard." It's bolted now, but the FA was done on gear.

You can hike around back to set TR's, but be careful getting to some of the anchors as you will right on the cliff edge.

A good place to escape the heat, but it can be frigidly cold when other crags are hot.

Getting There

Follow Movie Road to the T-intersection (you can no longer go straight). Hang a right and drive into and then out of a large drainage. Right before the road makes a prominent left hand turn, hang another right onto a spur road. If you have a nice car, park here and walk about 5-10 minutes down the road to the crag. Oz will be obvious when it comes into view.

11 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Oz Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Oz

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
● Dorothy's Crack
Trad
E Face
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
● Heartless
Sport
E Face
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
● Flying Monkeys
Sport
N Face
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
● If I only had a Brain
Sport
N Face
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
● The Wizard
Trad, Sport
E Face
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
● Over the Rainbow
Sport, TR
E Face
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Dorothy's Crack E Face
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Heartless E Face
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Flying Monkeys N Face
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● If I only had a Brain N Face
 3
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● The Wizard E Face
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
● Over the Rainbow E Face
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Oz »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
 Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Add New Photo
Photo Photo (copy)
Photos

Oz crag
Oz crag
 0
Niko on " Dorothy's Crack " <br> Mike on " Heartless "
Niko on " Dorothy's Crack " Mike on " Heartless "
 0

1 Comment

Sort by: Oldest
Newest Oldest Best Beta
Richard Shore
Richard Shore  
A great shady spot for hot days, and good rock quality. No approach time, so don't forget the cooler and beer. Check out Dorothy's Crack 5.9 and The Wizard 5.11b for a welcome change from the usual 'Bama Hills clip-ups. Oct 1, 2012