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Areas in Oz

East Face 2 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
North Face 1 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Description

What looks like a giant north and east facing boulder protruding out of the hillside offers several climbs in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. There are a couple of moderate cracks here in addition to the classic 5.11 "The Wizard." It's bolted now, but the FA was done on gear.

You can hike around back to set TR's, but be careful getting to some of the anchors as you will right on the cliff edge.

A good place to escape the heat, but it can be frigidly cold when other crags are hot.

Getting There

Follow Movie Road to the T-intersection (you can no longer go straight). Hang a right and drive into and then out of a large drainage. Right before the road makes a prominent left hand turn, hang another right onto a spur road. If you have a nice car, park here and walk about 5-10 minutes down the road to the crag. Oz will be obvious when it comes into view.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Oz

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dorothy's Crack
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The Wizard
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Over the Rainbow
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dorothy's Crack E Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Wizard E Face 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Over the Rainbow E Face 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
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Photos

A great shady spot for hot days, and good rock quality. No approach time, so don't forget the cooler and beer. Check out Dorothy's Crack 5.9 and The Wizard 5.11b for a welcome change from the usual 'Bama Hills clip-ups. Oct 1, 2012

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