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Routes in Suspension Bridge Buttress

Baby Duck T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Earl of Perth T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hell Gates T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspense T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspension Bridge Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 185 ft
GPS: 51.455, -2.627 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 710 total, 9/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Sep 5, 2011
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell
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Description

The steep limestone buttress directly below the suspension bridge offers some of the best climbing in the area, with several multiple-starred routes right next to each other. Unique for Avon Gorge, the rock is unquarried, solid and pocketed.

The busy A4 goes through a tunnel (apparently to protect traffic from rockfall) at the base of this cliff, meaning the road noise is much reduced compared to other areas in the gorge.

Although the routes finish temptingly close to the bridge, topping out onto the bridge is forbidden, and you are advised instead to rappel. Two 60m ropes will get you down from any of the fixed anchors.

Getting There

All the climbs start from on top of the A4 tunnel, and access to this can be gained from either side. To get down from the top of the cliffs, the best route is the zig zag path to the right of the suspension bridge. Alternatively, park in any of the small areas along the A4 and walk along the road. This is the right-most of the areas along the gorge, but is no more than 15 minutes walk from any of the others.

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Sean Maher
Santa Barbara, CA
Sean Maher   Santa Barbara, CA
After 15+ trips to the Gorge this crag has to be my favorite! Compared to the other crags, Suspension Bridge Buttress has steeper and more sustained routes with more positive holds featuring textured calcite crystals. The polish is less bad as well!

To approach, park at Main Wall and walk down the A4 to the bridge. Before the underpass, cross the highway to an unlocked gate in a small pull-out. Follow the climbers trail towards the bridge and climb a stepped stonework corner using a fixed rope. This gets you to the top of the underpass; from here follow the climbers trail steeply with another fixed rope to reach the climbs. Sep 15, 2016

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