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Wall Boulder

California > Los Angeles Basin > Angeles Nationa… > Arroyo Seco Boulders

Description

This wall/boulder is about 20 ft tall. The bottom 5 feet is slick with spray paint. It looks chossy but it’s solid.

The arêtes are fun V0s, and the center face is probably a V3. These routes are cool because the cruxes are down low and it gets easier on your way up so you don’t have to worry about falling from way up. There is an easy walk off/down climb on the left side.

Getting There

From the parking lot: After about a mile of walking in the asphalt turns to dirt and splits into a Y near some buildings. Stay to the left. Hike another 1/4 mile to the wall boulder on the right. The Bridge Boulder is a 1/4 past this on the right side of the trail.

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Wall Boulder
[Hide Photo] The Wall Boulder
After the crux move on the V0 right arete route.
[Hide Photo] After the crux move on the V0 right arete route.
Topping out
[Hide Photo] Topping out
A V0 Route
[Hide Photo] A V0 Route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] In the beta photo, the steep "Ares Face" is between the right-hand arête and the large, loose, piled-up blocks. The bushes growing at the base of the Ares Face disappeared quite awhile ago.

Two boulder problems, newly-listed, ascend this face. Dec 4, 2013
Michael Bernas
Ramona, CA
[Hide Comment] Fun spot for a quick afternoon session. Crux at bottom of routes. Plenty safe near top. Walk off the side. Sep 13, 2017
Justin Epifanio
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] Very unique boulder, great to run laps. At this point I think I've climbed every main variation (minus a crack climb I'll mention later). The routes currently listed need clarification. Also, it would help to mention (though obvious once you arrive), there are two faces. Quick side note *Ares Face is no longer overgrown as of May 2020*

The main face has a left arete, a center face, and a right arete. I would agree with the current assessment of V0 for both aretes, with the left having trickier feet and the right having sharper hands. The main face has a early crux, but V3 seems a bit generous.

The Ares Face is to the right side of the main face. This is where things get complicated. My goal for today was to climb "Eternal August aka SpreadEagleNebula"?? I avoided the right crack, the left arete, the 2 inch ledge, and the horn of Hera. And overall I agree with the sport climb assessment. A bunch of 5.10 moves with a 5.11a/b crux. I don't think top roping first as recommended is needed, nor did I experience any singular move I'd grade above V2. Instead of V3, I'd say V2R. Really fun though.

After climbing this route I checked the beta on Chop to the Top description and I couldn't really distinguish the two. There might be subtle differences since this face offers a lot of hold options, but the essential idea is exactly the same- avoid anything easy while climbing the face. (if there's a hold or foot placement that makes these routes totally different, please let me know).

I also realized this boulder has a ton more to offer beginners than what is currently listed. There is a variation using both the right crack and the arete. There's a variation using only the right crack and Ares face, and there is a variation using the arete and Ares face (and a riskier and harder variation exclusively using the right crack).

My personal list of routes on the wall boulder-

MAIN FACE
V0- Left arete (overgrown at the top, either face the pollen or step right halfway up)
V2- Main face (crimpy two hand start with high left foot crux early)
V0- Right arete (fun to work the feet around the side in the beginning)

ARES FACE
V0- Left Arete and main face (use anything on the arete, including the horn, avoid right crack)
V1- Son of Hera (as described, main face until the horn. Horn is bomber)
V2R- Center face aka Chop to the top aka Eternal August aka SpreadEagleNebula (how many names can one climb have?) (everything mentioned above is true, a satisfying and adrenaline inducing climb. Have a spotter to the right to feel better)
VB- Left Arete and Right crack (use all the good hands at your disposal)
V0/V1- Right crack and center face (depends on how much you use the right crack).
???- Right crack only (only variation I haven't done, left the gloves at home. I wouldn't want to fall off this route. Rocks below, but a good spotter can guide you to the left)

That's 9 routes total! And there are only 3 listed (2 of which are the same in my opinion). Topping out feels great, down climb is chill and there is fun for beginner to intermediate climbers. I'll go back soon and try that crack climb. May 22, 2020
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
[Hide Comment] The 3 routes listed are all wrong. There’s 4 routes here max, not 9. Just enjoy the rock and the variations and have fun, no need to add 9 “routes” to this tiny boulder. May 22, 2020
Justin Epifanio
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] My point, Tristan, is that many of these variations are great for beginners looking to conquer the fear of heights. This boulder could easily be overlooked by someone new, but in reality this boulder would be super fun for them. If you think there are only four routes (or the fact that the three listed are all wrong) why not update the page?? Or at the very least provide a little detail on the four routes "max" you suggest.

You can have fun climbing and still want accurate information. May 22, 2020
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
[Hide Comment] I can’t update it. Some guys added routes to this page and claimed first ascents after I posted this info. And when I posted it, I was probably the 1,000th person to climb it knowing the local history. I posted a pic of 3 routes and there’s 1 more to the right. It’s so silly to see 9 routes because you used a different start hold or skipped a foot. But go for it and add 6 more routes to this page if you want. May 22, 2020