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Routes in This is the Choss. . . A Choss Climbing Park

Choss Factor NINE 5.9d S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Choss Stands Alone, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chossalicious! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escape from ChosAngeles S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
EuroChoss S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

About a mile past This is the Place: a heritage park you'll find the real goods:
This is the Choss: A Choss Climbing Park.

It's a nice after work slab climbing crag close to Salt Lake City and the University of Utah. The area has cleaned up quite bit and offers a handful of moderate sport climbs with no crowds and virtually no approach.

The routes are sunny during the day and go into the shade for after work climb time. The climbing is fun and exciting in spots. Routes ascend an old quarry from the turn of the 1900s. Dogs are allowed but the canyon road is close.

10 draws and a rope should suffice.

Attention mattress people: There is an undone highish boulder problem left of the routes with a smallish landing pad ready to go. . . you don't have to be left out of the choss. . . Claim it to name it.

Getting There

Go to hogle zoo then go 1 mile east.

From downtown, head east on 800 south (Sunnyside Blvd.) toward Hogle Zoo. Continue one mile from the zoo. Park at the red "No Vehicles" sign. Rock is visible from the road. Approach is about 100 feet.

Tourists can rent bikes at the Intermodal Hub at 250 South 600 West and bus #3 will get you to Hogle Zoo from downtown. From there you can follow the directions above.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at This is the Choss. . . A Choss Climbing Park

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Yes, I agree. I stand corrected to previous comments. Traffic has completely transformed some of the routes on this roadside crag. Sunny disposition adds to the attraction. Nov 1, 2017
Great place for a few routes after work. The rock is more like hellgate than the slips but the crowds are nowhere near either. Sep 6, 2017
Pretty choosy. Other than that it's not too bad of a climb. Leading is scary here. You probably would want to bring a helmet. LOTS OF HORNET NESTS. BE CAREFUL WHERE YOU PUT YOUR HANDS. May 1, 2016
Chris Geaslin
SLC, Utah
Chris Geaslin   SLC, Utah
Found this gem last summer, for people who live downtown this crag is a five minute drive away and has some fun medium difficulty routes to lead. I already had the chance to head up there 2/26/15 and it was in good condition. The choss is there but manageable. I have yet to another person climb this but my group of climbing friends, for those busy weekends up the cottonwoods this can be a great alternative. The belay station could use some work and be really great. Mar 2, 2016
zoso  
That's a damn shame. Nov 20, 2014
Dang, this place might have to be renamed.

I was up there today, 3.5 years after the routes were established, and was surprised how clean the rock is now.

There was virtually no evidence of recently broken holds and there was even some chalk from recent use.

The climbing is still fun even if the rock is solid. Nov 20, 2014
Whitney lead climbing Euro Choss with ease. The temp was 72 in the valley - plenty warm here.

May 15, 2014
In the Getting There info, the "Approach is about 100 yards" is wrong, its only 100 feet. Also reminder, there are slithering critters here in Utah watch out for our friend we named Sneaky Snake - 5 feet long.

Also, there were very small bugs all over the rocks. once we were climbing did not notice them.

Also bring a helmet for the belayer, lots of falling choss.

May 15, 2014
picholasforbes
Salt Lake City
picholasforbes   Salt Lake City
Definitely an interesting crag. Just a little heads up, (no pun intended)avoid the routes on the far right and high because you will be about 50x more prone to injury.

It is an ever changing crag with some technical moves but for the most part, smooth sailing.

Enjoy! Dec 4, 2013
Being an old open pit mine, one will find old relics such as blasting caps, drill bits and of coarse all the garbage of that era. Now with years of freeze thaw and erosion, it has created a chossy gem that in all reality shouldn't be climbed. But with awesome banding and a timescale of saltwater fossils, the thin crimps, great friction and a awkward style of slab climbing gives one a quality climbing experience.

But as stated, "old open pit mine" which means riddled with fractures and probably unstable.
atleast that was my opinion on the place, when I would go traverse the base, "pretty long and super techy in spots." Try for multiple passes!

Ps a few of those routes were done solo, sans bolts. but hey hopefully they are drilled decent and fitted with long bolts or those things aren't going to be good for very long.

I give it 3-5 stars, good old heads up climbing! watch the overhangs and any jugs. Bet they all come down!! Jul 22, 2012
apross  
Tristan,
can't believe your climbing on that choss with the possibility of birds crapping on you or getting a deadly charlie horse :-)

Andy Mar 23, 2012
pardon the shameless crag promotion. But. . .If you like this choss, you may like the rattle horn in city creek canyon. Close to downtown, longer routes, variable rock quality and no crowds, wildlife . . . choss on! Mar 23, 2012
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
This is, by a significant margin, the worst sport crag I've ever climbed at. The rock is truly horrible.

Having said that, I actually enjoyed the climbing here and will be back. The bad rock makes things more interesting. It forces you to climb slower and in a more methodical way. It's not the best place for new climbers, though.

Thanks for putting up the routes. Mar 21, 2012
sweet! someone actually checked it out. Enjoy! Aug 21, 2011
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Awesome! No star Tuesday anyone? James' comments must mean that the rock here is worse than it is across the street under the Condos. Uh-oh. Aug 21, 2011
"Expect loose holds". Also expect created Rs (bring a rack!?...and then trust it??!!) and emergency department visits. Luckily numerous hospitals are not far and we have our own Fire/Paramedic team just up the road.
Don't expect "community" (for 5.8-5.10 leaders where falling is aways an option) friendly routes like Greg Martinez has thoughtfully installed on other Wasatch choss piles that almost self cleaned with traffic and were destined for popularity. This "climbing park" is destined for cob webs.

Really good job on the approach trail. It is excellent. Aug 20, 2011
zoso  
Unbiased? You picked the wrong hobby. Aug 18, 2011
I think unbiased folks should climb the routes and chime in on the quality. i think they are all fun.. . especially on lead.
Aug 18, 2011
zoso  
What no stars? It can't be worse than cock canyon choss. Aug 16, 2011

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