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New Don Wall (aka Upper Hurd Basin)

Colorado > Grand County / Fraser…
Warning Access Issue: Posted private property / no trespassing DetailsDrop down

Description

This crag is a good spot for beginners, kids, groups, and sometimes mosquitos. There are 6 nicely-bolted sport routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.9; also two routes and many variations that can be toproped. There are 6 double top anchors with Mussy Hooks, two of which are shared by two routes.  You can walk to or from the top anchors, but use caution and protect yourself getting to them.

The crag gets morning shade and has mostly good rock, although it's pretty dirty and mossy in places. The routes should get a bit easier as they clean up. You can also make some routes easier by moving just a few feet off the bolt line or contrive yourself onto numerous harder variations.

See the 2nd edition of Fraser Valley Climbs by Shaw & Shaw, for more information (available at IceBox Sports in Fraser). Pending route names, the routes have been temporarily numbered from left to right.

Note: as of September 2024, most top anchors now have Mussy hooks, courtesy of Kevin Gillest. Thanks, Kevin!

Getting There

Follow directions to Hurd Creek Crag. Continue past the Hurd Creek parking spot for 1/3 mile to the end of the 2WD road, where there is a turnaround at a water diversion structure. Park here, then hike up the old road that angles right and parallels Hurd Creek heading east up the valley. In the first 100 yards, stay left where a logging road branches to the right, and climb over the first of many fallen trees that block the road. The hike to the crag is about 25 minutes and crosses Hurd Creek once at about the halfway point. About 5 minutes before reaching the crag, the road almost disappears in a small wet marsh then passes a large marshy meadow (moose habitat) on the right. Right after bypassing another large tree blocking the road, look for a cairn on the left then a large rock outcrop about 200 feet uphill to the left (north) through the trees. It's an easy bushwhack up to the rock, which has a steep south face. The bolted routes are on the left (west) face.

L->R:

A. Route 1, 8, 1p, 40', bolts.
B. Route 2, 6, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Route 3, 5, 1p, 55', bolts.
D. Route 4, 7, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Route 5, 6 R, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
F. Route 6, 8, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Route 7, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Route 8, 7, 1p, 70', TR.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
Route 1
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Route 2
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 2
Route 3
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Route 4
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 1
Route 5
Trad, Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Route 6
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Route 7
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Route 8
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Route 1
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Route 2
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Route 3
 2
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Route 4
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Route 5
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, Sport, TR
Route 6
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Route 7
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Route 8
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Upper Hurd Basin Crag.
[Hide Photo] Upper Hurd Basin Crag.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
[Hide Comment] I think the climbing and most of the trail is on National Forest land. I think the trail just passes shortly through private property. Can anyone share more information about this? May 13, 2012
Deredacted Young
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Climbed at this area yesterday (13-June-20). Still a bit of snow at the base of the routes you had to step over or walk through. I was super amazed at how nice and fresh the gear was given the obscure and remote location. BIG THANK YOU to whoever equipped all the routes and gave us carabiners at the top of all pitches. If it wasn't so out of the way, this crag would definitely see more traffic. Jun 14, 2020
Patrick Deegan
South Bend
[Hide Comment] In the 2nd Edition of the Shaw and Shaw book, Fraser Valley Climbs, this area is called the New Don Wall. Jun 29, 2021
[Hide Comment] Climbed here the other day. Comments here, and the Jim Shaw guidebook, all suggest that the crag is on NF land and the approach trial "just" passes briefly through some private land. To my surprise, the Gaia app on my phone claimed that the entire hike (exactly one mile) is on private land, as is the crag itself (about 500 feet inside the private property boundary). Someone else should check this, because I may have this wrong. I hope I have this wrong, it's a nice crag with a peaceful ambience and fun routes.

Currently, there is no chain nor sign across the old 4WD road that functions as the approach trail, though this road road is blocked to vehicles by some large boulders a short ways in. There is one "No Trespassing" sign on a random tree (it's unclear where any relevant boundary might be in relation to this sign).... Perhaps anyone considering climbing here should be extra careful to be low impact and respectful. Jul 11, 2021