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Bulletheads, Central

International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Bulletheads
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Description

Whereas the Bulletheads South area is characterized by smaller crags linked by ledges, the Bulletheads Central area consists of four and five pitch routes that go right from the trail along the base to the summits of the tallest bullets.

Getting There

Approach as for the Campground Wall, but continue north. Once you're past Rainy Day Dream Away, you're in the Bulletheads Central area.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Chimp Dip
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Retrospect
Trad 5 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 63
Krimo Gold
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 56
Liquid Gold
Trad 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 1
Zappa Crack
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
The Mark of Zorro
Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
 2
Sneak Attack
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Dyke Link
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 35
Bulletheads Central
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 8
Third Abortion
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Don't Antiheasel Your Weasel
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 27
Ride the Bullet
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 362
Bullethead East
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Moonwatcher
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Ticket to Ride
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
Tonatiuh
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Marooned
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chimp Dip
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Retrospect
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Krimo Gold
 63
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Liquid Gold
 56
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Zappa Crack
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
The Mark of Zorro
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Sneak Attack
 2
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Dyke Link
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Bulletheads Central
 35
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Third Abortion
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Don't Antiheasel Your Weasel
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Ride the Bullet
 27
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Bullethead East
 362
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Moonwatcher
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Ticket to Ride
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Tonatiuh
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Marooned
 7
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Beginning of the long finger crack (last pitch).
[Hide Photo] Beginning of the long finger crack (last pitch).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I thought this route was amazing.
I agree with the last poster that the gear on the first pitch was bomber and I had no need for offsets.

We pitched it out as follows:

P1, the 10 b crack to the anchors out right just under a boot shaped flake with a little tree growing out of it. I was past the middle mark on my 70 m rope by maybe 10-15 feet.

P2. Easier cracks to fun moves through roofs and transitioning between cracks in the roof. Bolted anchor out right. (5.9 )

P3. AMAZING 10c traversing finger crack. 10c felt fair to me.

P4. Up an easy corner to a tree belay under bolder roof. Crack filled with pine needles. (5.7) You could probably combine with next pitch if you made sure to manage drag.

P5. Pull around the bouldery roof. You'll be on the rock and just to your left is a little dirt chute with trees, almost to where you think maybe you should be walking up it. Move right on easy ground, and then up into a little alcove/corner with a bolt on the left wall. Bouldery moves past this bolt (10b). End on the big ledge at the base of the final pitch.

P6. Wow. Fun starting boldery sequence to get established in the crack. Crux for me started at an awkward pod and then it stayed hard for a while. Really awesome pitch. As someone else noted it's like 55m. The cracks eases in difficulty as you go higher, but then at the end there is an easy but steep, somewhat dirty exit gulley to finish off.

I struggled on the last pitch but thought the whole climb was really stellar! Jul 26, 2025