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Routes in Sleeping Beauty Mountain

Falling Kaiser Zone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fat Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flight of the Falcon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good and Plenty T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
High Wire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sizzle Me T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundowner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tang Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Elevation: 2,027 ft
GPS: 43.552, -73.55 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,522 total · 63/month
Shared By: Jaysen Henderson on Jul 20, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer
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Sleeping beauty is a popular day hike from a secluded trail head known as Dacy's Clearing. Several cliff bands lay rest on the mountain, the lowest of which have the concentration of established routes. This cliff does a great job of providing spectacular views of the lake from the cliff top, and there's more than enough great routes to keep you busy for the day. Rock quality varies but routes have been put in on the better rock and the quality is fantastic.

Getting There

From NY 149 hang a left onto buttermilk falls road (big black rooster sign on the turn), follow this road past the yield merge onto shelving rock road and it will soon turn to dirt. Once on the dirt road take it to the end where it meets with a large parking lot (dont take the turn off w/ gate just before the lot). If the gate leaving the parking lot to dacy's clearing is open take that to the opening(4wd), park and hike in by the trail head sign. At 20mins hiking in you will hit a trail junction, continue on the trail for another 5 mins and there will be a herd path leading up to the far eastern side of the cliff, i would suggest going to the most popular wall ( take the trail all the way to the west end of the cliff under the obvious Tang Corner) and setup base camp.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sleeping Beauty Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Crack
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tang Corner
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flight of the Falcon
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fat Crack
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Tang Corner
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Flight of the Falcon
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
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San Pedro, California
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
this place is cool but i don't think it sees the traffic it deserves with shelving rock so close by. the rock quality is good and there are a series of nice moderate climbs all in a row. good times. Sep 15, 2012
E Miller
Denver, CO
E Miller   Denver, CO
FYI: My partner and I didn't get there with the directions in Adirondack Rock. We followed the yellow blazed trail to a fork with a sign pointing left to bump pond. At this junction we took a right onto a trail with blue blazes. As described, the trail crosses a small stream on a wooden bridge with the climber's trail departing the left side of the trail at a cairn. The climber's trail is faint, but marked with cairns. The approach is pretty mild if you don't get lost and the climbing is well worth it. A great area for the 5.8 trad leader. Jun 24, 2013
The road into Dacy Clearing was open at of 7/26/2015. It looks like some repairs were made.

Also a note on the approach: after you read the trail junction at ~0.6 miles, continue towards the sleeping beauty summit. You will shortly cross a wet area with a wooden "boardwalk/ bridge in the mud". About 50-100 yards after this is a cairn of telephone book sized rocks and a very faint herd path. You are only 100 yards from the cliff at this point but, at least for us, the foliage obscured the view.

Last, the rock is still a bit dirty. Quite nice movement and routes, but more traffic would help! Jul 26, 2015
I suspect anyone who's serious about getting to the trailhead will find it, but the phrase, "Once on the dirt road take it to the end" in the directions above would have one passing all the trailheads and the Shelving Rock lot. No rock climbing access takes the dirt road to its end. Sep 6, 2018

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