Carrboro/University Lake boulders Climbing
|GPS:||35.897, -79.085 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Dominion Rognstad on Jul 17, 2011|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
Site BetaA small bouldering area with several outcrops along Morgan creek near University Lake. Carrboro is the hipster foil to Chapel Hill's upscale college town atmosphere. This area is forested with some strong fine-grained monzonite granite. Not well known or exceptional but worth it for a little workout or quick jaunt from campus. Most of the boulders are located along Morgan Creek on land owned by Triangle Land Conservancy.
Easiest access is to a 4m boulder (Jolly Green) set against the hill. Problems range from VB to V2, though mostly slab. Though a fun spot to hang, some parts are contrived. A sitting start on the left hand side traversing to upper right offers an easy top route or there are more difficult lower paths. Starting on the right gives more variety with laybacks, crimping and underclings. Just about everything you need to start learning bouldering is here.
Continue further east to find an 8m crag overlooking the creek. Not well developed and take care for bees and sensitive plants. Further along is the Playground pool with the Cornelius test piece.
Following the trail west takes you to University Lake, where the Spiderqueen and Mad Dog Dam areas are located.
- Speakeasy bar - good brews with a few pool tables
- Carrboro Beverage Co. - Great selection! Lots of different brews.
- Cat's Cradle - one of the top small music venues of the South.
- Milltown - excellent eatery($$) and lots of exotic beers. 18 on draught and 140 different bottles.
- Neal's Deli - grab a lunch togo in an awesome authentic deli.
Fragile plant life Details
Rhododendron bluff atop hill is owned by Triangle Land conservancy. Please respect and do not remove plant life and try to preserve bank stability.
How to find Carrboro's little secretShort approach and quick access to town could make Morgan Bluff your new huff 'n puff turf.
- Reference Street Address for Directions: 180 BPW Club Rd., Carrboro NC 27510
The easiest way to get there is from BPW Club Road off Smith Level Road going south from downtown Carrboro on South Greensboro Street. Parking can be found at the Highland Hills apartment office near the pool or in the apartments on Tar Hill drive (They don't tow as of 7/18/2011).
Alternatively, take the free J Bus from UNC campus; make sure to get the J bus going towards "Rock Haven Road" instead of the Jones Ferry Road bus. Get off at the Highland Hills bus stop at either the office or Tar Hill drive just ask the driver to point it out to you. Approach is <0.5 km down the trail below the office/pool or down past the dumpster on Tar Hill drive.
If coming from Tar Hill drive, walk down the hill and take the trail just to right of the dumpster. Heading left on the trail following the creek will take you to University Lake or bear straight and to the right for the other projects. Keep along the creek until you see the rocks.
From Highland Hills office: Follow the trail below the office and pool until it reaches Morgan creek. There will be a pipe across the stream as a landmark but you do not cross the creek. Follow the trail left (west) for a small traverse right at the creek ~25m away or continue to University Lake and the Spiderqueen. Go right (east) into the woods to find Jolly Green, Saxa Pawpaw, and the Playground Pool.
Classic Climbing Routes at Carrboro/University Lake boulders
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season