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Routes in Hexenküche

Allgäuer Traum S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Alter Hexentanz (Old Witch's Dance) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Athos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baba Jaga S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Belohnung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crash V5 6C
Devil Wall S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Devils's Dance V6 7A
Diagonalweg S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Direkter Sanduhrweg (Direct Hour Glass Way) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exzess im Morgenrot (Excess at Sunrise) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Feenwald S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gabriels großzügiges Geschenk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geölter Blitz S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hexensex S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hexentanz (Witch's Dance) S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hiltpoltsteiner Weg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Klein und Gemein (Small and Mean) S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kleine Hexen müssen hexen S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kurz und Schmerzlos (Short and Painless) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kurzer Zauber S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Liesel Maurer Ged.-Weg (Liesel Maurer Commemoration Way) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Master of Stone V6- 7A
Mauerblümchen (Wallflower) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nordkante (North Arete) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Nordschlucht (North Gully) S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nordwestkante S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ostkamin (East Chimney) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ostschlucht S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ostverschneidung (East Dihedral) T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ostwand (East wall) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phantom Lord V5 6C
Pipifax (Codswallop) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattenschwanz S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Räuber Hotzenplotz S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sad Lisa V2 5+
Scherzkeks (Joke Cookies?) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solohex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teufelspakt V3- 6A
Turmwächter (Tower Guard) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ulrikenpfeiler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Völlig Schwerlos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waldenser V1 5
Wer hat Angst vor Anthony Braxton? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zittern verboten (shaking forbidden) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
mihi Malte S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 1,980 ft
GPS: 49.664, 11.333 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,528 total, 32/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jun 5, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath
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Description

While this area can get very crowded on weekends, it's still a very cool place to climb. It's in the forest and is cool in the summer, and has climbs ranging from UIAA 4 to 9-. The rock is pocketed like most other places in the Frankenjura, but it's got a little different feel to it. There are also a few routes which follow cracks, including an overhanging 8. This is a worthwhile place to visit.
The name means "Witches Kitchen".

Getting There

From Nürnberg, drive down the B2 toward Gräfenberg, and keep driving until you get to Hiltpoltstein. Drive outside of town and watch for a parking lot on the left. There are a lot of trees around it, and it's right on the edge of town. Once you've parked, take the trail in the middle of the parking area (to the left of the signs) through the woods and keep following it to a clearing with a little building on a hill (it's a little water house). Go to the right around this little building and around the corner of the rocks. The first route you'll come to is Kurzer Zauber on the left, and you should see the crazy overhanging Kleine Hexen müssen hexen (8) in front of you a ways.

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