Description

The Elephant Head is the 1st rock formation encountered on the approach to Texas Canyon and by far the largest. This formation is easily distinguished, from the trail, by the large caves at the base of its east face and its huge slabby south face, Hyperion Slab. The majority of the longer climbs at Texas Canyon are located on the south and west faces of the Elephant Head. The Pangea Wall lies on the north face. Its west face forms the east wall of the First Corridor. The formation is about 200 ft. high.

Getting There

From the parking area on the west side of the road, walk up the road past the locked white gate. When the crag comes into sight, look for a trail on the right that diagonals down to the right. Continue following the dirt track downhill and skirt the large formation with the caves to the left. Hyperion Slab is the huge slab on the south side of the formation, with the roof or overhang on the lower portion.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Elephant Head (& Hyperion Slab)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
There are 2 routes to the left of Amarillo by Morning I climbed Saturday, the one immediately to the left felt easy-mid 11ish (admittedly more on the easy side once I got the moves worked out), the one to the left of that felt like maybe 5.9 and shared anchors with a route one more to the left that looked even easier.

Anybody know anything about these? Or what the "11" actually goes at? Apr 29, 2013
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
There are actually three routes left of "Amarillo by Morning." Each route has its own 2-ring Fixe anchor.
L to R......(as you're facing the rock)
"Poke Salad Annie" (5.8) 6 bolts
"Urban Cowboy" (5.9) 7 bolts
"Lonestar" (5.10d/11a) 5 bolts
"Amarillo by Morning" (5.10a/b) 8 bolts Apr 30, 2013
NancyM Mastracchio
Acton, California
NancyM Mastracchio   Acton, California
Thank you, Ben!! Now I have it figured out! Aug 2, 2013
Should Brachiation Dance be under the "East Face + The Caves" section? That section seems to be routes entirely right of the caves but Brachiation Dance is definitely in the caves.

Also, there's a handful of fully bolted routes, some with permanent chain draws, between what I think is Muleshoe and Brachiation Dance. Does anyone know anything about them? Hardware is in decent but not brand-new condition. Fun overhanging routes Nov 27, 2018
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Ian....those "fully bolted" routes that you refer to were recently established. The hardware is top notch and less than a year old, so definitely in better than decent condition. Nov 29, 2018