Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Medicine Wall

Texas
Warning Access Issue: Texas Climbers Coalition Property - Now Open DetailsDrop down

Description

NEW! 6/19/20 - MedWall is now back open to the public thanks to Herculean efforts by the TCC and AF.  Please make a donation to help secure future access to the property via the TCC.  Due to limits on access prior to opening, the Walls are still being restored and re-bolted.  As such, routes may or may not be restored, may have changed etc etc.  Descriptions etc will be very limited until things are more polished and complete.  Take everything here with a grain of salt as some info is quite dated and we're still working on updating it all ASAP.

A few reminders:

1. A 30m 'Reimers'/gym rope will not be long enough for all the routes out here. Close the system and tie a knot in both ends of the rope if you are unsure whether your rope will reach or not.  60m recommended.  

2. There is still loose rock in areas. Wearing a helmet while belaying is a good idea. Be cautious and attentive while at the base of the wall.

3. We are fortunate that this area is finally open to climbers. It wasn't by accident - it was through lots and lots of hard work by the TCC and Access Fund working with the City and private landowners. Please don't jeopardize access to the area. Obey the posted rules, be stewards of the land, and be good representatives of the climbing community. If we expect the city, TPWD, private landowners and other entities to work with us in the future, we need to do a good job self-policing ourselves and elevating the climbing community in the eyes of land managers.

Limestone Cliffs up to ~30m. The rock varies from excellent blue rock to blocky choss. Be cautious pulling on anything that seems loose, it probably is.

North facing so it does get SOME shade in the summer but the sun sneaks in when it's high in the sky. It can be COLD in the winter but the sun is easy to walk to to warm up. Each of the areas are really all part of one semicontinuous cliff band. Climbers would refer to different distinct areas as a "wall" and the practice stuck. Think of each "wall" area in the Euro sense of sectors on a larger wall.

Star Ratings are based on climbs ONLY at Med Wall. Don't think for a second that a 4 star route here will rank up there with a 4 Star route in the Valley or Smith Rock.

The local "San Antonio Rock Climbers" FB Page will be your best best for finding partners or other local specific info.  Mods keep it fairly on point as a beta/partner finder/gear swap/tech and learning page.

Picture Compiled of mattm (compiled pictures into one document, route reads left to right) 

Getting There

Access to the wall is via the Salado Creek Greenway (paved hike and bike path - really nice!)  Park at the Trailhead inside of 1604, hike north under the highway and then follow the trail west until the walls appear on your left (Budda Belly will be the first prominent one).  Primary access is on short, dirt spur trail past the MedWall sign to the base of Old and New Testament Walls.

Parking / Trailhead​​​

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overview of MedWall Sectors
[Hide Photo] Overview of MedWall Sectors
MedWall Info Sign
[Hide Photo] MedWall Info Sign

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Looks like it will be opening back up in 2020!
therivardreport.com/san-ant… Dec 17, 2018
Alex Grande
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Please consider donating to keep it open - texasclimberscoalition.org/… Jun 19, 2020
John Miller
Honolulu, HI
[Hide Comment] Will this wall have be re-bolted now that it is opening up? If so, when will it be completed? Jun 22, 2020
mattm
TX
[Hide Comment] John - The wall is currently being re-bolted with about 20 routes restored as of 6/22/20. It's an ongoing process. Topos will be updated periodically as more climbs (both old and new) are brought online for people to enjoy. Jun 22, 2020
Adam W
TX/Nevada
[Hide Comment] Just a note-walls get no sun in the winter at any hour of the day and remain very cold. Jan 1, 2021
David Rice
San Antonio, TX
[Hide Comment] Fall on January 9, 2021 and a warning to people that want to rock climb

A male from Houston was being belayed by female on Buddha Belly Wall. The male free fell approximately 25 feet. He struck low angle limestone slab twice on his way down. My assessment from a distance was a broken right ankle and likely broken ribs and/or vertebrae. His breathing was clearly compromised. This individual is looking at months to recover. He likely never will fully recover from his injuries.

Any rock climber has seen the lack of personal responsibility displayed by this couple. My climber partner and I discussed the insanity of them climbing a few minutes prior to the male falling.

Rock climbing at Medicine Wall is a dangerous activity with serious consequences. People wanting to climb at Medicine Wall without rock climbing experience need to seek out competent instruction. The instruction could come from a mixture of sources like hiring a climbing guide, finding an experienced rock climbing mentor, or responsible self-learning.

So what happened?

The male from Houston lead up a 5.11ish climb without consulting a topo or any other climber there. He was not wearing a helmet. The first part of the climb is low angle slab. After about the fourth or fifth bolt it becomes a steep route. Watching him move on the rock he did not appear to have any rock climbing experience.

He was at the transition to the steep part. The female belayer had who knows how much slack at her feet. She was just kind of randomly feeding rope in and out of a GriGri. I don’t think she understood how a belay works.

The male pulled up a lot slack rope to himself. Not sure why he wanted several arm fulls of slack rope. I did not witness the actual fall but he slipped on 5.easy terrain. The bolt was at his waist when he fell. He became inverted and struck the limestone rock twice on his way down.

I turned around to see the second strike. By some miracle his head swung into a void instead of rock. After coming to stop a few feet above the ground he immediately said, “Julia what the fuck?!” I don’t think the rope or the belayer absorbed any energy during his fall. Jan 10, 2021
Alexandros Kazantzidis
College Station, TX
[Hide Comment] It would be great if we knew how many quickdraws we need for the (longer) routes... Sep 12, 2022
[Hide Comment] Hey all, just wondering if there are any etiquette tips to know for Med Wall? Specifically, is lowering off or rapelling preferred and is top roping off the anchor ok? Thanks Jan 21, 2023
Jay Eggleston
Denver
[Hide Comment] It’s never ok to top rope off anchors without using your own gear. Jan 21, 2023
mattm
TX
[Hide Comment] Totally fine if not encouraged to use the hardware for both lower and TR at MedWall. Other areas may differ so please, when in doubt use your own gear. Here however, local climbers as well as LCO contribute funds so fixed gear can be used and rigging your own gear is not needed. We’ve seen enough weird rigging that clip and lower through the beefy mussy is better. We don’t see the excessive wear that gritty areas elsewhere worry about. We’d rather avoid rigging mistakes and wear out relatively cheap steel. I always try to drop a few bucks in the local rebolt fund when I travel to support hardware upkeep. Jan 21, 2023
Sage Bedell
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] It might be worth renaming the walls here, similar to mountainproject.com/area/10…, so that they are in a left-to-right order, making it easier for visitors to find their way around. Nov 14, 2024
[Hide Comment] I agree with sage. Separately the rebolting was excellent especially relative to other Texas crags. Thanks everyone! Nov 14, 2025
[Hide Comment] Did anybody find any quick draws near Texas caterpillar? Nov 16, 2025