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Cape Spencer

International > N America > Canada > New Brunswick

Description

This is a coastal area, with a few boulders and small cliffs. The rock is hard like granite with lots of features. The boulders appear to be pretty good quality with few loose holds. The landings to some of the problems aren’t flat, it would be recommended to bring 2-3 pads. The Amount of quality rock is limited because it changes to choss at the ends of this area.
This area has been climbed off and on since the 70’s and possibly before this. Allot of the “New” problems were probably climbed by another generation, if anyone has information of other problems, correct Route/Boulder Names or FA information let me know and ill update it. (IanLingley@hotmail.ca)

Getting There

This area is located at the end of the Redhead Road in Saint John. Drive the Redhead road to the lighthouse at cape Spencer, walk by the sign that says loose cliffs. An obvious trail will lead you down toward the shore. Its about a 20min drive from the highway in Saint John and 4min approach from the parking spot.

Routes from Left to Right

V0-1 4+
 2
Acadian Coastal Drive
Boulder
V2 5+
 1
Pink Belly
Boulder
V2 5+
 1
Who's on first!
Boulder
V0- 4-
 1
Ticks of the Trade
Boulder
V0- 4-
 1
There’s no future in time travel
Boulder
V0-1 4+
 1
Sunny D
Boulder
V0-1 4+
 1
Sense of artificiality
Boulder
V1 5
 1
Sea captains don't like crew cuts
Boulder
V0- 4-
 1
Russian Ouellette
Boulder
V-easy 3
 3
Real Acadian Time
Boulder
V1 5 PG13
 1
Lavender Terrazzo
Boulder
V2- 5+
 1
Alpine Sit Start
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 1
Jimmy Buffet or (cheeseburger an…
Boulder
V0- 4-
 3
Interested in High Efficiency
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 1
high-toe, high-toe. its off to w…
Boulder
V0+ 4+ PG13
 1
Grandiloquent
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 1
Gota Miss Mispec
Boulder
V0 4 PG13
 1
George C. the light
Boulder
V0 4 R
 1
Fred Carries the Torch
Boulder
V1+ 5
 1
Converter Crack
Boulder
V2+ 5+
 1
Aptitude vs. Altitude
Boulder
V2 5+
 1
Without geometry, life's pointless
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Acadian Coastal Drive
 2
V0-1 4+ Boulder
Pink Belly
 1
V2 5+ Boulder
Who's on first!
 1
V2 5+ Boulder
Ticks of the Trade
 1
V0- 4- Boulder
There’s no future in time t…
 1
V0- 4- Boulder
Sunny D
 1
V0-1 4+ Boulder
Sense of artificiality
 1
V0-1 4+ Boulder
Sea captains don't like cre…
 1
V1 5 Boulder
Russian Ouellette
 1
V0- 4- Boulder
Real Acadian Time
 3
V-easy 3 Boulder
Lavender Terrazzo
 1
V1 5 PG13 Boulder
Alpine Sit Start
 1
V2- 5+ Boulder
Jimmy Buffet or (cheeseburg…
 1
V0+ 4+ Boulder
Interested in High Efficiency
 3
V0- 4- Boulder
high-toe, high-toe. its off…
 1
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Grandiloquent
 1
V0+ 4+ PG13 Boulder
Gota Miss Mispec
 1
V0+ 4+ Boulder
George C. the light
 1
V0 4 PG13 Boulder
Fred Carries the Torch
 1
V0 4 R Boulder
Converter Crack
 1
V1+ 5 Boulder
Aptitude vs. Altitude
 1
V2+ 5+ Boulder
Without geometry, life's po…
 1
V2 5+ Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

House boulder
[Hide Photo] House boulder

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Norfolk
Fredericton, New Brunswick
[Hide Comment] Is this the same as the area which has been for years known simply as 'Cape Spencer'? The directions and description are a perfect match. You might consider asking around for the names of the problems, they've possibly been climbed many times in the past. Local, Cory G. would be the authority and he'd be happy to help.

You'd be able to contact him here climbeasterncanada.com/view… : May 24, 2011
Ian Lingley
East coast Canada
[Hide Comment] Yep, this is Cape Spencer. I knew people have climbed here before, and assumed it was mostly roped climbing because “no one” boulders in NB, at least SJ.
I’ve never seen the post on CEC, but would like to find out as much as I can about the area. Names, Grades, FA? May 25, 2011
Chris Norfolk
Fredericton, New Brunswick
[Hide Comment] Hi Ian.

Cape Spencer has certainly been bouldered by many people in the past, myself included. I'm not certain that a guide was produced but a quick search and post on the CEC forum will net you some answers. As I said, some of the experienced SJ folks (Cory G., Tom A., Steve A) will probably chime in.

Just thought you ought to know since claiming FA's and renaming existing problems can sometimes get you into trouble.

Also FYI... I've proposed using this site to create an online guide for N.B. and it did not receive a warm reception from many of the locals in your area. YMMV. May 25, 2011
Ian Lingley
East coast Canada
[Hide Comment] Hey Chris

I know that these rocks have been climbed before if you read the description of the area it states to email me any information you know about the area so I could update it. I talked to Steve and Tom; they said they climbed there and Cory G would likely know more.

And Yes I am also aware that people that live and climb in New Brunswick don’t want anyone else in the world to know there is climbing here. It is completely understandable because C-lane is always crowded and all the classics are starting to become polished. May 25, 2011
Dom Caron
Welsford, New Brunswick Canada
[Hide Comment] I'm pretty sure Cory Goodman has a topo of the area.

Also, Chris I think people on CEC were against posting areas with fragile access (CL, Sunnyside, etc.). I'm sure nobody cares if you post Cape Spencer. Cedar point would also benefit beeing posted on here IMO.

Good work on the pictures and tentative topo Ian. Jun 3, 2011
[Hide Comment] As a kid (born in Saint John 1937) I climbed all over the rocks around Cape Spencer. My family owned the property which is now owned by the Mitchells and we spent every summer there. We got there because my Aunt was a childhood friend of Marion Mitchell in England and after migrating to New York she reunited with Marion at Cape Spencer. (Marion had married Charlie Mitchell in England and migrated to Canada.)
I'm sure my three brothers and the three Michell boys (Bill, Bob, and Buddy) all climbed on one or all of the rocks within a mile of the lighthouse. Some of the eight Mitchell girls may also have explored around the rocks.
BTW I now live in southern Arizona. Aug 8, 2020