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Sidewinder Buttress

Montana > Northwest Region > Missoula Area > Rattler Gulch

Description

This area has most of the easier climbs in Rattler, and is a popular area. It can get busy on warm days and weekends. There is a variety of grades and quality here. Most of the really good routes are in the lower grades.

Getting There

From the main parking area, hike straight up the scree slope heading towards the left side of the obvious large triangular face. Pass this and the climbs will be on your right side heading uphill.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 46
● Don't Put Your Hand In It
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
● Snake Eye
Sport
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 5
● Zelonish Gully
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 41
● Orange Peel
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
● Sidewinder
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 1
● Bivi's
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Don't Put Your Hand In It
 46
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Snake Eye
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Zelonish Gully
 5
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
● Orange Peel
 41
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Sidewinder
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Bivi's
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Picture of the buttress from the road. We did not have such a picture and spent a bit of time trying to find it. There is a trail up to the left (as seen in the photo here)
[Hide Photo] Picture of the buttress from the road. We did not have such a picture and spent a bit of time trying to find it. There is a trail up to the left (as seen in the photo here)
A view of the Sidewinder Buttress. 'Snake Eye' on the right and 'Don't Put Your Hand In It on the left. They share an anchor.
[Hide Photo] A view of the Sidewinder Buttress. 'Snake Eye' on the right and 'Don't Put Your Hand In It on the left. They share an anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
[Hide Comment] The direct talus slope approach to this crag is heinous. A safer, easier and more sustainable option is to angle up to Sidewinder on climber trails from down-canyon, passing near the Rock in Between and Shredder Wall. You won't entirely avoid all the loose stuff but it will help with a serious erosion issue above the main parking.

On June 26, 2016 my girlfriend and I found a recent pile of human you-know-what right at the base of Snake Eye and Don't Put Your Hand In It. Super gnarly and obviously not cool. We did our best to clean things up but the staging area reeks right now. For a lighter take on a shitty topic:

The Wright Stuff climbing.com/people/the-wri… Jun 27, 2016
Kurt HR Krueger
Missoula, MT
[Hide Comment] BOLT REPLACEMENT ON "Don't put your Hand in it". Yesterday, Dave (of the FA) and I found 6 or 7 holes (3/8 inch) drilled for traditional bolts (no hardware). Last year Dave, Michael and I pulled and replaced the bolts on the 2 5.10's on Shredder Wall (also Dave's FA of 25 years ago) with GLUE INS. Eric P has GLUE INS ready for Diver's Wall. I can show you the bolts that were pulled if you interested. Dave has the replacements for Don't and Snake Eye. Western Montana Climbing Coalition have 4 or 5 people dealing with bolt replacement. Check with them. Maybe WMCC can put bolt replacement issues on the Facebook page.

Also, don't touch the pin Dave placed. I've convinced him that we leave the pin in place and duplicate it with a Glue In. That way people can have a choice - Tradition or Sport. Or if your concern - you clip the pin with a short QD and clip the Glue in with a longer sling. Apr 6, 2019