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Keystone Canyon

Alaska > Anchorage & S C… > Anchorage & S C… > Valdez

Description

20 miles east of Valdez, Alaska is the Keystone Canyon. also known as Mecca to ice climbers.
while skiing seems to be the major winter draw to this area, the big multi-pitch ice routes have been drawing climbers since the mid-70's. Ice climbing festivals started here in 1983 and much of the activity was fueled by the late Andy Embick.

Many notable names have ventured their way up the majestic 800ft falls in the canyon, and there seems to be good ice for just about everyone from test ice pieces like Wowie Zowie, WI6 FA Embick & Tobin in 1981, to mixed adventures like Sans Ami, a serious mixed climb which has seen but a few ascents to moderates like Fang Gully (WI2). 

Getting There

Most people fly to Anchorage and drive down to Valdez, but you can catch a flight on RAVN Aviation from Anchorage for about $250. Hundreds of ice routes abound; some to the west in Mineral Canyon are walking distance from downtown.

Valdez has long hosted an ice climbing festival, in the day these were parties of climbers doing their thing and it was a spectacular way to build community, unfortunately these events have been commercialized over the last couple years and focus less on building community and more on making money. 

Routes from Left to Right

WI2
 1
Road Runner
Trad, Ice
WI2
 1
Bebop
Trad, Ice
WI1
 1
American Way
Trad, Ice
WI2
 1
Kasey's Eleven
Trad, Ice
WI3
 1
Chickenshit
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3
 10
Mud Slide
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3 M7
 3
Chugach Hookah
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI2
 1
Chuckles
Trad, Ice
WI4+
 1
Synapse
Trad, Ice
WI2
 1
House of Beaver
Trad, Ice
WI3 M3-
 2
Yellow Snot
Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI2+
 6
Fang Gully
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI4 R
 25
Hung Jury
Trad, Ice
WI3
 1
Whitewater
Trad, Ice
WI3
 24
Horsetail Falls
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI6-
 1
Marginal Desperation
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI6-
 7
Loves Way.
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3
 1
Jabberwocky
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI2
 1
Foolagain
Ice
WI2
 2
Hooligan
Ice
WI5
 32
Keystone Greensteps
Ice 4 pitches
WI5-
 9
Glass Onion
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI5-
 16
Simple Twist of Fate
Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 31
Bridalveil Falls
Ice 5 pitches
WI5+
 5
Flying Cloud
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI2
 1
Oil Slick
Trad, Ice
WI2
 1
Left Over
Trad, Ice
WI4
 2
Voodoo Stick
Trad, Ice
WI3-4
 16
P.O.S
Ice
WI3
 1
Fiesta
Trad, Ice
M8
 1
Ueli in Socks
Trad, Mixed
WI3+ M4-5 Steep Snow R
 2
Gunnison
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow 6 pitches
WI2
 1
Triangle in the Cleft
Trad, Ice
WI3
 1
Plancher D'Envol
Trad, Ice
WI2
 1
Jo-Jo
Trad, Ice
WI2
 1
Bloodstain
Trad, Ice
WI3
 1
North Slope Slurry
Trad, Ice
WI2
 1
Scotch on the Rocks
Ice
WI1
 1
Charlie Chaplin
Trad, Ice
WI2
 2
Greenstone Keysteps
Trad, Ice
WI2
 1
Eye Ball
Trad, Ice
WI3
 1
Try It
Trad, Ice
WI3
 1
Never Again
Trad, Ice
WI2
 1
The Luge
Trad, Ice
WI2
 1
Shaker Heights
Ice
WI2
 1
Birthday Boy
Trad, Ice
WI2
 1
Toolooselautrec
Trad, Ice 3 pitches
WI1
 1
Zero Gully
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI1
 1
Bird Man
Trad, Ice
WI3
 1
The Bight
Trad, Ice
WI4
 3
Popsicle Pillar
Trad, Ice
WI3
 2
Cidersicle
Trad, Ice
WI4
 2
Hanging Tree Left
Trad, Ice
WI4-
 1
Hanging Tree Right
Trad, Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Road Runner
 1
WI2 Trad, Ice
Bebop
 1
WI2 Trad, Ice
American Way
 1
WI1 Trad, Ice
Kasey's Eleven
 1
WI2 Trad, Ice
Chickenshit
 1
WI3 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Mud Slide
 10
WI3 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Chugach Hookah
 3
WI3 M7 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Chuckles
 1
WI2 Trad, Ice
Synapse
 1
WI4+ Trad, Ice
House of Beaver
 1
WI2 Trad, Ice
Yellow Snot
 2
WI3 M3- Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Fang Gully
 6
WI2+ Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Hung Jury
 25
WI4 R Trad, Ice
Whitewater
 1
WI3 Trad, Ice
Horsetail Falls
 24
WI3 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Marginal Desperation
 1
WI6- Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Loves Way.
 7
WI6- Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Jabberwocky
 1
WI3 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Foolagain
 1
WI2 Ice
Hooligan
 2
WI2 Ice
Keystone Greensteps
 32
WI5 Ice 4 pitches
Glass Onion
 9
WI5- Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Simple Twist of Fate
 16
WI5- Ice 2 pitches
Bridalveil Falls
 31
WI5 Ice 5 pitches
Flying Cloud
 5
WI5+ Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Oil Slick
 1
WI2 Trad, Ice
Left Over
 1
WI2 Trad, Ice
Voodoo Stick
 2
WI4 Trad, Ice
P.O.S
 16
WI3-4 Ice
Fiesta
 1
WI3 Trad, Ice
Ueli in Socks
 1
M8 Trad, Mixed
Gunnison
 2
WI3+ M4-5 Steep Snow R Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow 6 pitches
Triangle in the Cleft
 1
WI2 Trad, Ice
Plancher D'Envol
 1
WI3 Trad, Ice
Jo-Jo
 1
WI2 Trad, Ice
Bloodstain
 1
WI2 Trad, Ice
North Slope Slurry
 1
WI3 Trad, Ice
Scotch on the Rocks
 1
WI2 Ice
Charlie Chaplin
 1
WI1 Trad, Ice
Greenstone Keysteps
 2
WI2 Trad, Ice
Eye Ball
 1
WI2 Trad, Ice
Try It
 1
WI3 Trad, Ice
Never Again
 1
WI3 Trad, Ice
The Luge
 1
WI2 Trad, Ice
Shaker Heights
 1
WI2 Ice
Birthday Boy
 1
WI2 Trad, Ice
Toolooselautrec
 1
WI2 Trad, Ice 3 pitches
Zero Gully
 1
WI1 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Bird Man
 1
WI1 Trad, Ice
The Bight
 1
WI3 Trad, Ice
Popsicle Pillar
 3
WI4 Trad, Ice
Cidersicle
 2
WI3 Trad, Ice
Hanging Tree Left
 2
WI4 Trad, Ice
Hanging Tree Right
 1
WI4- Trad, Ice

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This was inside the temporary glacier after the 2014 avalanche in Keystone Canyon.
[Hide Photo] This was inside the temporary glacier after the 2014 avalanche in Keystone Canyon.
The Big four in Keystone Canyon. L to R: Bridalveil Falls, Simple Twist of Fate, Glass Onion, Keystone Greensteps (bottom 1/4 in shade)
[Hide Photo] The Big four in Keystone Canyon. L to R: Bridalveil Falls, Simple Twist of Fate, Glass Onion, Keystone Greensteps (bottom 1/4 in shade)
A classic picture of an ice pixies event from 2007
[Hide Photo] A classic picture of an ice pixies event from 2007
Pat taking the whipper like a top rope tough guy on one of the many drytool routes in Keystone Canyon.
[Hide Photo] Pat taking the whipper like a top rope tough guy on one of the many drytool routes in Keystone Canyon.
Valdez Ice Climbing Festival 2014
[Hide Photo] Valdez Ice Climbing Festival 2014
local resident
[Hide Photo] local resident