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Jungle Gym
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
This secluded sector is an excellent outing for those looking for routes in the 12+ to 13 range. This crag is shady in the morning, so it compliments the other (more popular) side of the canyon. This crag offers short, power-endurance routes, on some of the best pockets in Ten Sleep.
Getting There
Driving toward town from the camping on the old road, park in the first hairpin turn and look for a faint trail heading up to the cliffline. It shouldn't take more than 20 minutes or so of hiking until you come to the obvious alcove...look for the fixed line to ascend into the alcove.
[Hide Comment] There are also two variation routes here. Put it in the Gorilla 13a, starts on Put It In the Ting Ting and traverses right into the second crux of GT. Also, Gorilla Ting Ting 13, begins on the opening boulder problem of GT and traverses left and finishes on Ting Ting.
Mar 20, 2011
[Hide Comment] Also, I just added the grades that are suggested in the Guidebook. The grades may be a little soft on a couple of these routes, but whatever. The pockets in this little alcove are SICK!
Mar 20, 2011
Glenwood Springs, CO
Glenwood Springs, CO