Placche Zebrate Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Feb 19, 2011|
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DescriptionPlacche Zebrate, (Zebra-striped Slabs) is located on the west side of the valle del Sarca (the Sarca Valley), between Dro and Pietramurata.
Placche Zebrate is located directly below Monte Brento, the second tallest peak rising above the Sarca Valley. Monte Brento is well known and popular for base jumping from a launching point known as Becco dAquila (the eagles beak). Common to see squirrel suits whistle by over head which can make for exciting, tense viewing in anticipation of a successful deployment.
The area contains over 30 routes at a variety of grades with a number of popular multi pitch options ranging from 5.8 to 5.11. From 3 to a whopping 16 pitches, there's both shorter routes that climb quite quickly to much longer venues.
The limestone here has fun features with friction slab, holes, shallow grooves, rails and edges all making for fun, low-angle movement.
Routes tend to be sparsely bolted and a small rack of cams and nuts will help supplement any meager fixed protection.
The standard descent is a trail heading off the top of the slab to the climbers left, and down through scree near the forested slopes to the south. Routes may not be equipped for rappelling.
From the sign at the parking lot, comes these "Safety Rules":
Attention! Stones fall in area under the wall. We warn to enter this area to the climbers only. The helmet must be worn!
Attention! This is not a sport climbing area, but a mountaineering area with long routes. Belay not equipped with chain. Take suitable equipment and clothes with.
We warn to use a single 11m rope (or better, a double 9mm rope) minimum 50m long. To bring slings to connect the belay bolts. To use the helmet.
Attention! It is strictly forbidden to leave the marked path while coming back! A free down hill can cause stones fall on climbers engaged in the wall.
If should you find any equipment damaged or missing, please telephone this in.
Mountain Rescue Phone No. 520333.
Getting ThereFrom Arco, drive north, past the village of Dro and before reaching Pietramurata (and well before Sarche). Past Dro, the obvious east-facing long slab area will come into view in a couple of kilometers.
Just past the Bar Placche Zebrate on the right (east), pull into the signed parking lot on the left (information kiosk).
Obvious trails lead directly to the slab in about 15 minutes time. If there are parties climbing, it would be prudent to pay attention for rock fall even on the approach trail and especially if traversing the base of the slab.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season