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c. Frog's Head - the Arch

New York > Gunks > Trapps
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Along the Cliff

last area: Jackie | next area: Strictly and Shockley's

Description

Major Features: This stretch of cliff is especially dense in the 5.6 - 5.8 range of classics. It includes 3 walls: the Frog's Head, the Drunkard's Delight area, and the Arch area.

The leftmost portion of this area is marked by the lightning-strike offwidth of Baby. The Frog's Head wall itself ends at the huge left-facing corner of Maria; Frog's Head is the most obvious hand- and finger-crack in the middle of the wall.

The next major wall, just past the roof of Jean, is the Drunkard's Delight wall, which continues with a low overhang. Drunkard's Delight has a remarkably "bouldery" start, and follows a crack to a (hysterically fun) roof.

Past the right end of the head-height overhang, you'll find the huge right-facing corner of Bloody Bush, and the major arch of, you guessed it, Arch; downhill from that route, you'll find a low arete, Ribs, which marks the start of the next section, d. Strictly - Shockley's.

Mixing it up above the GT ledge is a worthwhile option here. Between Frog's Head and Morning After, you have the option of finishing on the last pitch of Maria, a classic "5.6" roof; either last pitch of Sixish (5.4 or 5.10); Drunkard's very nice 5.5 corner; the 5.4 last pitch of Sixish; or the 5.9 corner-roof of Arc of a Diver, all within an easy walk on the GT ledge.

Approach: Most routes are accessed from the
Baby / Easy O approach trail. The next trail is [[Sixish]]111945150 below the Baby offwidth. There is also an
Sixish trailhead. that leads to that route, Drunkard's, and Bloody Mary.

Descent: The Uberfall Descent is still a quick and useful option from the clifftop, especially on a crowded day.

There are two sets of rappel bolts at the GT Ledge on the Frog's Head Wall: above City Lights (also useful for Son of Easy O and Pas de Deux), and just to the right of Frog's Head (also for Sundown and Maria). Above Baby, a tree with rappel rings is best to avoid using, due to the plethora of pebbles and the likelyhood of unaware parties below. Mid-cliff, there are anchors for Easy Overhang, City Lights and Frog's Head that are also easily accessed from neighboring routes.

For Drunkard's Delight (and Sixish), there is a tree at the GT Ledge of Drunkard's Delight from which you'll really want to use two ropes. Other routes right of Drunkard's Delight also feature tree rappels with mid-cliff options for single ropes.

For the Arch area, there is a bolted (single-rope) rappel line to climber's right, over the route Ribs.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 9
Fetus
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 327
Baby
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Twisted Sister
Trad 2 pitches
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 227
Easy Overhang
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 482
Son of Easy O
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 140
Pas de Deux
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Patty Duke
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 271
City Lights
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 499
Frog's Head
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 5
Night Fall
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 258
Maria
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
Sundown
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 6
Kama Sutra
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 92
Maria Direct
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 23
Maria Redirect
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 6
Sultana
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 6
Scungilli
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 70
Jean
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 15
Precarious Perch
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 240
Sixish
Trad 2 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 216
Drunkard's Delight
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 75
Morning After
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 119
Bloody Mary
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 66
Rusty Trifle
Trad 3 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 11
Arc of a Diver
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Size Matters
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 8
Rock and Brew
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Crusty Waffles
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Trusty Rifle
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Rusty Jam
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 163
Bloody Bush
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 14
Uncle Rudy
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 149
Wrist
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 215
Arch
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 31
Wick's Banana
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 7
Billy Shears
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fetus
 9
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad
Baby
 327
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Twisted Sister
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Easy Overhang
 227
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad 2 pitches
Son of Easy O
 482
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Pas de Deux
 140
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Patty Duke
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
City Lights
 271
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Frog's Head
 499
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Night Fall
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad
Maria
 258
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Sundown
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Kama Sutra
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad, TR
Maria Direct
 92
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Maria Redirect
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, TR
Sultana
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Scungilli
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Jean
 70
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Precarious Perch
 15
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sixish
 240
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Drunkard's Delight
 216
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Morning After
 75
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Bloody Mary
 119
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Rusty Trifle
 66
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Arc of a Diver
 11
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Size Matters
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Rock and Brew
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Crusty Waffles
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Trusty Rifle
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Rusty Jam
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bloody Bush
 163
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Uncle Rudy
 14
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Wrist
 149
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Arch
 215
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Wick's Banana
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Billy Shears
 7
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Anthony on Baby, placing his #5
[Hide Photo] Anthony on Baby, placing his #5
Baby / Easy O approach trail.  The next trail is [[Sixish]]111945150
[Hide Photo] Baby / Easy O approach trail. The next trail is Sixish trailhead. The next trail is [[Strickley's]]110455108
Sixish trailhead.  The next trail is [[Strickley's]]110455108
[Hide Photo] Sixish trailhead. The next trail is Strictly's approach trail. A few feet north of the East Trapps Connector Trail (Stairmaster).
Matt belaying Kevin on the 2nd pitch of Rusty Trifle
[Hide Photo] Matt belaying Kevin on the 2nd pitch of Rusty Trifle
Sixish, first pitch.  The block on the left is 5.6 to mantle on top of, but the moves can be protected.
[Hide Photo] Sixish, first pitch. The block on the left is 5.6 to mantle on top of, but the moves can be protected.
Sixish trailhead.
[Hide Photo] Sixish trailhead.
Bloody Mary follows the crack behind the large block.
[Hide Photo] Bloody Mary follows the crack behind the large block.
Wrist.  <br>
<br>
Bring a large piece to protect the layback crux (large crack seen beneath the leader).
[Hide Photo] Wrist. Bring a large piece to protect the layback crux (large crack seen beneath the leader).
Frog's Head. P1.
[Hide Photo] Frog's Head. P1.
The City Lights crux on P1 is the thin crack through the very polished rock at the start.
[Hide Photo] The City Lights crux on P1 is the thin crack through the very polished rock at the start.
Bloody Bush
[Hide Photo] Bloody Bush