This stretch of cliff is especially dense in the 5.6 - 5.8 range of classics. It includes 3 walls: the Frog's Head
, the Drunkard's Delight
area, and the Arch
The leftmost portion of this area is marked by the lightning-strike offwidth of Baby
. The Frog's Head
wall itself ends at the huge left-facing corner of Maria
; Frog's Head
is the most obvious hand- and finger-crack in the middle of the wall.
The next major wall, just past the roof of Jean
, is the Drunkard's Delight
wall, which continues with a low overhang. Drunkard's Delight
has a remarkably "bouldery" start, and follows a crack to a (hysterically fun) roof.
Past the right end of the head-height overhang, you'll find the huge right-facing corner of Bloody Bush
, and the major arch of, you guessed it, Arch
; downhill from that route, you'll find a low arete, Ribs
, which marks the start of the next section, d. Strictly - Shockley's
Mixing it up above the GT ledge is a worthwhile option here. Between Frog's Head
and Morning After
, you have the option of finishing on the last pitch of Maria
, a classic "5.6" roof; either last pitch of Sixish
(5.4 or 5.10); Drunkard's
very nice 5.5 corner; the 5.4 last pitch of Sixish
; or the 5.9 corner-roof of Arc of a Diver
, all within an easy walk on the GT ledge. Approach:
Most routes are accessed from the Baby / Easy O approach trail. The next trail is [[Sixish]]111945150
below the Baby
offwidth. There is also an Sixish trailhead.
that leads to that route, Drunkard's, and Bloody Mary. Descent:
The Uberfall Descent
is still a quick and useful option from the clifftop, especially on a crowded day.
There are two sets of rappel bolts at the GT Ledge on the Frog's Head
Wall: above City Lights
(also useful for Son of Easy O
and Pas de Deux
), and just to the right of Frog's Head
(also for Sundown and Maria
). Above Baby
, a tree with rappel rings is best to avoid using, due to the plethora of pebbles and the likelyhood of unaware parties below. Mid-cliff, there are anchors for Easy Overhang
, City Lights
and Frog's Head
that are also easily accessed from neighboring routes.
For Drunkard's Delight
(and Sixish), there is a tree at the GT Ledge of Drunkard's Delight
from which you'll really
want to use two ropes. Other routes right of Drunkard's Delight
also feature tree rappels with mid-cliff options for single ropes.
For the Arch
area, there is a bolted (single-rope) rappel line to climber's right, over the route Ribs