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Routes in Otter Lake Cliff

Approach Shoe Assassin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crimp Scampi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dukes of Hazard S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Harvest Moon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Harvest Moon Variation S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Independence Pass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Independence Pass Variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Second Suffering V7+ 7A+ PG13
Pandora's Box S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Porcupine Prelude S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Porcupine Prelude, Variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Roof Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Roof Traverse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roof Traverse Variation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rubber Knumbchuck S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 1,855 ft
GPS: 43.194, -74.497 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 6,072 total, 72/month
Shared By: Justin Sanford on Jan 24, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

Description

Short south facing cliff on the north side of Otter Lake in Caroga Lake, NY. If you are looking for some fun bouldery sport routes without a crowd, then this is the place for you. Tallest climb in roughly 45' tall, some are only 30-35' tall.

Getting There

Park at the Kane Mtn. tailhead parking area on Green Lake Rd. in Caroga Lake, NY (near the small marina/gas station). From the parking area, walk northeast toward the reservoir and turn left onto the cross country ski trail that cuts over to Pine Lake. About 400 yards down this trail you will see a rock cairn on the right side of the trail. Cut into the woods here to head towards Otter Lake (This appraoch keeps you off of the private property for the 2 hunting camps on Otter Lake). Once you hit the lake, stay on the waters edge of the north side of the lake continuing all the way to the backside of the lake. Follow the climbers trail to the cliff. Total hike takes roughly 25 min.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Otter Lake Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pandora's Box
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pandora's Box 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
Can somebody with the new ADK rock book update the approach? Apparently there is a much more detailed description now. Sep 19, 2014
Justin Sanford
Broadalbin, New York
Justin Sanford   Broadalbin, New York
Ha ha...that's what you get when you have a boulderer trying to rate sport climbs! The climbs are well protected, but I have seen people stick clip the 2nd bolt on a bunch of the routes in fear of ground falls (although I personally have not seen a ground fall at this crag). I guess thr routes could be updated to "G"...need some more climbers opinions out there for sure... Mar 28, 2011
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Wow Justin... you went on a rampage here... nice work! Feb 5, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
I notice that all of the routes get a "PG-13" rating, though they're categorized as sport routes. Is there potential for ground fall on these routes? Jan 27, 2011

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