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Yushan East Summit
International
> Asia
> Taiwan
> Yushan
Access Issue: Limited by Yushan National Park regulations
Details
The alpine climbs are inside the natural reservation areas declared by Yushan National Park. People who enter Yushan National Park reservation areas need to apply for Yushan National Park entrance permission. The permission is granted only for limited number of persons daily. Sadly, in some climbing seasons (especially some Febraries in recent years, the best times for alpine climbing), the park official would reject any application for entrance permission, even if you specifically apply for alpine climbing in this area.
Description
A rocky summit, 3869 meters high above sea level, looked like a monk's hat standing high above the Laonong stream gully on the east of Yushan main summit. Yushan East Summit is rated as the most technically difficult summit on Taiwan for regular hikers (via traditional route).
Routes in this area are less popular because the area is slightly more remote and it is not as easy to stack enough ice and snow for alpine climbing as main summit and the mixed routes appear to be much steeper with much lesser ice. Climbers wondered they should bring rock shoes or boots with crampons. Most of the routes have no repeated report since modern FA in 1980's.
The FA of technical routes in this area was a rock climb in summers.
Getting There
To the base of the climbs: . ~1 hour of hiking up stream from Laonong stream camping site, or, . 1km traverse east and down stream from the north wind gap.
Traditional route to East summit: . 800 meter long class 4+ along the east ridge from main summit.