All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Kootenays West > Valhalla Mountains
Mount Gimli Rock Climbing
Routes in Mount Gimli
|Another Dimension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Dark Side of the Moon T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|East Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a|
|North Face Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Rumble in the Jungle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Sailor Jerry T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Slave to Gravity T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Slave to Gravity (Direct Start) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|South Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Space Jam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1 PG13|
|GPS:||49.766, -117.648 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||16,159 total, 191/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Trout on Dec 28, 2010|
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In Scandinavian mythology Gimli is heaven, the most beautiful place on Earth. Rock climbers might agree.
Mount Gimli was first climbed in 1963 by Mrs H Butling, R Deane, M Stewart, and P Williams via the East Ridge (Putnam, 1971, "Gimli Peak...no rope required").
It is fortuitous that the most beautiful of the Valhalla Mountains requires the shortest approach hike. Begin with 15 miles of logging road, usually okay for any car with a stout-hearted driver. Then a steep, but well groomed, trail climbs about 3 miles to the toe of Mt Gimli's South Ridge.
MT GIMLI ROUTE SUMMARY
From the true summit, descend the East Ridge via steep class III downclimbing. The crux is at the top. Down low, a barrier cliff prevents easily returning to gear stashed at the base. If you carry your hiking shoes and packs up the route, then it should be possible to rejoin the trail near the bivouac (Green).
The local guide book describes a short-cut to the base of the SE Ridge route: "Two 60-meter rappels will deliver you back to the start of the South Ridge (Kristiansen & Hempsall, 2009)." (Black)
I have observed both mountain goats and people using an even better shortcut to Gimli's East Ridge, passing right by the first belay on the South Ridge. This is probably worth a try. Maybe one short rappel at the crux (blue).
Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Gimli
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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