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Routes in Mount Gimli

Another Dimension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
East Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
North Face Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rumble in the Jungle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sailor Jerry T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Slave to Gravity T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Slave to Gravity (Direct Start) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
South Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Space Jam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1 PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 49.766, -117.648 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 16,159 total, 191/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Dec 28, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn
Getting weather forecast...

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INTRODUCTION
In Scandinavian mythology Gimli is heaven, the most beautiful place on Earth. Rock climbers might agree.

Mount Gimli was first climbed in 1963 by Mrs H Butling, R Deane, M Stewart, and P Williams via the East Ridge (Putnam, 1971, "Gimli Peak...no rope required").

APPROACH
It is fortuitous that the most beautiful of the Valhalla Mountains requires the shortest approach hike. Begin with 15 miles of logging road, usually okay for any car with a stout-hearted driver. Then a steep, but well groomed, trail climbs about 3 miles to the toe of Mt Gimli's South Ridge.

MT GIMLI ROUTE SUMMARY




DESCENT

From the true summit, descend the East Ridge via steep class III downclimbing. The crux is at the top. Down low, a barrier cliff prevents easily returning to gear stashed at the base. If you carry your hiking shoes and packs up the route, then it should be possible to rejoin the trail near the bivouac (Green).

The local guide book describes a short-cut to the base of the SE Ridge route: "Two 60-meter rappels will deliver you back to the start of the South Ridge (Kristiansen & Hempsall, 2009)." (Black)

I have observed both mountain goats and people using an even better shortcut to Gimli's East Ridge, passing right by the first belay on the South Ridge. This is probably worth a try. Maybe one short rappel at the crux (blue).

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10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Gimli

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
South Ridge
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Ridge 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
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