Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 49.766, -117.648 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 22,140 total · 228/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Dec 28, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn
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INTRODUCTION
In Scandinavian mythology Gimli is heaven, the most beautiful place on Earth. Rock climbers might agree.

Mount Gimli was first climbed in 1963 by Mrs H Butling, R Deane, M Stewart, and P Williams via the East Ridge (Putnam, 1971, "Gimli Peak...no rope required").

APPROACH
It is fortuitous that the most beautiful of the Valhalla Mountains requires the shortest approach hike. Begin with 15 miles of logging road, usually okay for any car with a stout-hearted driver. Then a steep, but well groomed, trail climbs about 3 miles to the toe of Mt Gimli's South Ridge.
Approach from Slocan, British Columbia
MT GIMLI ROUTE SUMMARY
GIMLI'S EAST SIDE
WEST FACE ROUTES
WEST FACE-LEFT SIDE

DESCENT
GIMLI DESCENTS
From the true summit, descend the East Ridge via steep class III downclimbing. The crux is at the top. Down low, a barrier cliff prevents easily returning to gear stashed at the base. If you carry your hiking shoes and packs up the route, then it should be possible to rejoin the trail near the bivouac (Green).

The local guide book describes a short-cut to the base of the SE Ridge route: "Two 60-meter rappels will deliver you back to the start of the South Ridge (Kristiansen & Hempsall, 2009)." (Black)

I have observed both mountain goats and people using an even better shortcut to Gimli's East Ridge, passing right by the first belay on the South Ridge. This is probably worth a try. Maybe one short rappel at the crux (blue).
GOAT TRAIL

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11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Gimli

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 33
South Ridge
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Ridge
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
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