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Mount Gimli Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Mount Gimli

L › R R › L A › Z

	Another Dimension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Beach Break T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Dark Side of the Moon T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	East Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Kristiansen-Croston T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Kristiansen-Croston (Direct Start) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Lusting After Women T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	North Face Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Rumble in the Jungle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Sailor Jerry T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	South Ridge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Space Jam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1 PG13
	Tight Ass T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Valhalla Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Elevation:	9,000 ft	2,743 m
GPS:	49.7655, -117.6478 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	56,739 total · 295/month
Shared By:	Ken Trout on Dec 28, 2010 · Updates
Admins:	Rukas Fodor, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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DESCRIPTION

In Scandinavian mythology Gimli is heaven, the most beautiful place on Earth. Rock climbers might agree.

Mount Gimli was first climbed in 1963 by Mrs H Butling, R Deane, M Stewart, and P Williams via the East Ridge (Putnam, 1971, "Gimli Peak...no rope required").

There is an outhouse at the "Beach" campsite at the base of the mountain.

APPROACH

It is fortuitous that the most beautiful of the Valhalla Mountains requires the shortest approach hike. Begin with 24km of logging road, usually okay for any car with a stouthearted driver. Then a steep, but well groomed, trail climbs about 5km to the toe of Mt Gimli's South Ridge.

MT GIMLI ROUTE SUMMARY

Descent

From the true summit, descend the East Ridge via steep Class 3 down climbing. The crux is at the top. Down low, a barrier cliff prevents easily returning to gear stashed at the base. If you carry your hiking shoes and packs up the route, then it should be possible to rejoin the trail near the campsite(Green).

The local guide book describes a short-cut to the base of the SE Ridge route: "Two 60-meter rappels will deliver you back to the start of the South Ridge (Kristiansen & Hempsall, 2009)." (Black)

I have observed both Mountain Goats and people using an even better shortcut to Gimli's East Ridge, passing right by the first belay on the South Ridge. This is probably worth a try. Maybe one short rappel at the crux (blue).

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Gimli

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 81 ● South Ridge Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 8 ● Sailor Jerry Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 5 ● Lusting After Women Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 5 ● Valhalla Gold Trad, Alpine 5 pitches