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Routes in (2) Clocktower

Albatross T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Green Turtle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black President T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bomb Fuse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caterpillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Civil Disobedience T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Concave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Blue Temptation V0 4
Detention T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Firecracker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hippie Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jefferson T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North by Northeast T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Way Ticket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Probation Officer T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return Trip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sea Dogs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Skin Friction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake in the Grass T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Suspended T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wedding Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Description

The Clocktower is one of the most iconic features of the area. The rock is highly fractured yet solid, and thus a majority of routes are entirely traditional. The platform below the tower is just barely above sea level, so belaying can involve some interesting rope management to keep it out of the drink. It is also in the sun almost all day, except for part of "Discipline" area which is shaded around 12pm. The area is rather disjointed, consisting of several different aspects, approaches, heights, and grades.

The best routes - such as Wedding Day - climb through the tufa-like flakes on the east-facing aspect of the tower itself. You can mix and match the lower half routes with the upper half depending on your interests.

The "Broadway Ledge" halfway up the tower connects with the "Presidents" area to the right. There are a couple of short though worthwhile climbs here, most notably Jefferson.

On the south face of the tower is a concave, slimy section that was bolted long ago and rebolted in 2013. These routes are harder and likely awesome, but because the belay is always under water, nobody ever climbs them.

The northeast face is appropriately called the "Pondside" wall. Routes further to the right have the same wetness problem, but most others can be done without too much concern. Short, classic cracks with a big ledge.

The last sub-area is the "Discipline" area. This is a big platform that can be accessed by scrambling above the traverse to Long Lane or by climbing up the "Pondside" wall. There are several short but fun routes including Caterpillar and Civil Disobedience.

The only safe DWS at Long Dong is here as well. Check out Crystal Blue Temptation - a summer staple!

WARNING: This area can be impassable during high seas.
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Getting There

15 minutes from the north parking lot. Trend south from School Gate the rock field. After crossing the stagnant pool of garbage-water and hopping down to a nearly sea level platform, you will have arrived.

Rain & Shade

All routes get wet in the rain. All walls dry quickly.

North-east face of the Clocktower and the Discipline area are in the shade around 12pm. All other routes are in the sun until late in the afternoon.

22 Total Climbs

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