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Routes in Sir Sanford Group

East Ridge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
North Buttress Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c AI3 X
Northwest Ridge/Standard Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI2
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Elevation: 10,917 ft
GPS: 51.656, -117.874 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Ken Trout on Dec 13, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn
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INTRODUCTION


The Sir Sandford Group is deeply tucked away in the middle of the Northern Selkirks. Seven sub-ranges block access from the Rogers Pass area. To the north, the Adamant Group and three other sub-ranges screen easy viewing of the most impressive and highest summit of British Columbia's Interior Ranges, Mount Sir Sandford (11,580'). The common analogy is 'The Robson of the Interior Ranges'.

Named after Sir Sandford Flemming, the man who invented time zones in 1884 (David P Jones, Selkirks North, 2001). First climbed in 1912 by bushwhackers extraordinaire Aemmer, Fuez Jr, Holway, and Palmer. This kind of detail would normally be in a route description, but their line is now a serac bowling ally.

The rock is not the best. Marble, micaceous schist, and phyllite predominate. Sir Sandford is famous for it's sharp but rotten ball-bearing marble. The 1955 first ascent team of Palisade Peak, described unreliable rock that: ..."resembles an overhanging sand dune." Luckily, much of the group is covered by numerous (retreating) glaciers. On the positive side, David Jones states: "Rockfall is not a big problem, since surface rocks disintegrate into sand as soon as they start moving."

John Scurlock's Gallery has the best pictures of Mount Sir Sanford.

APPROACHES

There are only two recommendable ways to get into Sir Sandford, helicoptering or Moberly Pass.

There is an outdated and very difficult way third way that crosses the Adamants. Washed out roads and glacial retreat are making the old way less fun. Let's hope the logging roads used to get to near Moberly Pass don't get washed out or decommissioned.

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Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Slightly better photos of the maps were posted to the "Adamant Group" site. Mar 18, 2016

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