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Mount Waddington

International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Coast Mountains > Waddington Range

Introduction

The highest and most difficult mountain of the entire Coast Range. 7,000 feet of glacier climbing followed by a 900 foot summit tower at almost 4,000 meters (13,000ft). Temperatures cold enough for double boots can occur during the summer.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3 M3+ Steep Snow
 5
● Bravo Glacier to Southeast Chimney
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b AI3 Steep Snow
 2
● McNerthney Pillar
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 20 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3 M3+ Steep Snow
 1
● Kiwi Route
Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Bravo Glacier to Southeast…
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3 M3+ Steep Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
● McNerthney Pillar
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b AI3 Steep Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 20 pitches
● Kiwi Route
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3 M3+ Steep Snow Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mt Waddington main summit from NW peak For scale 3 tents are in the wind cirque at lower left.
[Hide Photo] Mt Waddington main summit from NW peak For scale 3 tents are in the wind cirque at lower left.
Mount Waddington Route Map<br> contour interval: 40 meters<br> grid: one kilometer squares<br> <br> Red - Wiessner-House Rt<br> Yellow squares - Bravo Gl Rt<br> Green - Fury Gap-Angel Gl Rt<br> Red zones - Avalanche!<br> Blue Square - Plummer Hut<br> Tiny blue dots - Many near misses
[Hide Photo] Mount Waddington Route Map contour interval: 40 meters grid: one kilometer squares Red - Wiessner-House Rt Yellow squares - Bravo Gl Rt Green - Fury Gap-Angel Gl Rt Red zones - Avalanche!…
Mount Waddington and the Tiedemann Peaks<br> contour interval: 40 meters<br> one kilometer grind
[Hide Photo] Mount Waddington and the Tiedemann Peaks contour interval: 40 meters one kilometer grind
Route topo SW face "Weissner Route" that we followed.
[Hide Photo] Route topo SW face "Weissner Route" that we followed.