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Routes in Mount Bryce (3,507m)

North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI4
Northeast Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Glacier/South Face T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Elevation: 11,507 ft
GPS: 52.041, -117.33 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,184 total, 26/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Dec 12, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn
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INTRODUCTION
Slightly detached from the southern edge of the Columbia Icefield, Mount Bryce (11,507') is a trio of icy peaks.

Traversing the three peaks of Mount Bryce's Northeast Ridge has been highly recommended for over a century.

The newly popular South Glacier Route dodges the old 5.6 crux! Like the Southwest Face of Mount Assiniboine, new logging roads have caused the rediscovery of an old and once forgotten route. Rockfall hazard in the South Glacier Couloir is a risk reported by some who have written about this shortcut.

The west face has been climbed from Rice Brook by at least one obscure route. Photo by wlloyd @ summitpost

The North Face climbs 7,500 feet from Bryce Creek. Similar to Robson's North Face; loose rock for the first half and steep alpine ice to the top. Bryce's middle peak has a nordwand route too.

The north face of the Centre Peak was climbed in 1977. Kruszyna & Putnam's 1985, AAJ & CAJ guide to the Canadian Rockies says a 5.8 pitch began the climb to the right side of the giant serac in the photo. Then a 65 degree traverse dodges another serac (no direction given!) and easier front-pointing directly to the summit.

TRAIL MAINTENANCE

The decommissioned logging road up Rice Brook is overgrown and needs to be recommissioned for climbers. Finding a volunteer trail crew might not be that hard for Mount Bryce. Same for the shorter hike in to the North Face.

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