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Elevation: 5,304 ft 1,617 m
GPS: 43.9084, -111.5371
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 78,397 total · 443/month
Shared By: Justin Brunson on Dec 9, 2010
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

Description Suggest change

The Teton Dam offers bouldering of all types. If you want spooky vertical highballs, head to the Quarry. Should you prefer steeper jug hauls, hike down the road to the Big Dam Boulder. Notable testpieces include Long Black Cadillac V7, Savoir Faire V7+, The Chambermaid V8, & San Callisto V9. Easier favorites include Lumber Jill V0, Love Handles V1, Rocket from the Crypt V2, Jack in the Crack V2, Tweedle Dee V4, and Snake Eyes V4.

The dam was first explored by Dean Lords and friends in 2004, but after a few years, folks stopped coming. In the early spring of 2010, Joel Nielsen and Blair Thorpe worked a few problems on the floodplain which sparked new interest. Since then, around 100 problems have been brushed from v-easy to v9.

Dean and his wife Heather deserve a mountain of credit for their work at the dam. Many hours were put in engineering landings, brushing holds and even doing a little climbing.

Most of the FAs listed here are from the 2010 revival, although it's likely that most of the good stuff had already been done. If one with better knowledge wishes to amend the record, please speak up.

It's not the most pristine setting; debris from the 1976 disaster is still everywhere, along with plenty of spent shotgun shells. However you will have it basically to yourself. Camping is ok; There are fire rings scattered around and plenty of driftwood to keep the good times rolling. Have fun and don't make a mess.

In the heat of summer the best time to climb is early morning or about 11 at night.

The boulders are mostly composed of welded tuff, and rock quality varies. Some routes feel like bullet-hard granite, while others shed key holds regularly. Landings are generally very good.

Getting There Suggest change

From Idaho Falls-- take the 20 north to 33 East. 3 miles after Newdale take a left at the Teton Dam Site sign. at the end of the paved road bear right onto the dirt. Take 2 left forks and park at the loop.

Go past the white "bureau of reclamation" gate about 75 yards, look for a cairn on your left. This climber's trail will take you to the quarry. Or you can just follow the road.

With 4 wheel drive and a thirst for exploration it is sometimes possible to drive all the way down into the canyon via dirt roads north of the normal parking loop.

102 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Teton Dam (Lower Teton River Canyon)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+ PG13
 15
Jack in the Crack
Boulder
V2 5+
 6
Rocket from the Crypt
Boulder
V2 5+
 16
Switcheroo
Boulder
V3- 6A
 6
Heebie Jeebies
Boulder
V4- 6B
 8
Lumber Jack
Boulder
V4 6B
 15
Tweedle-dee
Boulder
V4 6B
 14
Snake Eyes
Boulder
V5 6C
 10
The Thing That Only Eats Hippies
Boulder
V6 7A
 6
Long Black Cadillac
Boulder
V6 7A
 6
Dam Nation
Boulder
V6 7A
 14
Hell Hooks
Boulder
V7 7A+
 8
The Chambermaid
Boulder
V7 7A+
 10
Savoir Faire
Boulder
V9- 7C
 5
San Callisto
Boulder
V9- 7C
 8
The Dainty Morsel
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jack in the Crack Quarry
 15
V2 5+ PG13 Boulder
Rocket from the Crypt Catacombs & the Crypt…
 6
V2 5+ Boulder
Switcheroo Power Box Boulders
 16
V2 5+ Boulder
Heebie Jeebies Quarry
 6
V3- 6A Boulder
Lumber Jack Quarry
 8
V4- 6B Boulder
Tweedle-dee Power Box Boulders
 15
V4 6B Boulder
Snake Eyes Walrus
 14
V4 6B Boulder
The Thing That Only Eats Hi… Quarry
 10
V5 6C Boulder
Long Black Cadillac Quarry
 6
V6 7A Boulder
Dam Nation Big Dam Boulder
 6
V6 7A Boulder
Hell Hooks Big Dam Boulder
 14
V6 7A Boulder
The Chambermaid Chamber
 8
V7 7A+ Boulder
Savoir Faire Slabtastic (BDB cluster)
 10
V7 7A+ Boulder
San Callisto Catacombs & the Crypt…
 5
V9- 7C Boulder
The Dainty Morsel Aromatherapy Boulder
 8
V9- 7C Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Teton Dam (Lower Teton River Canyon) »

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