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Description

With the capital of Mainz, Rheinland-Pfalz contains a section of the Rhein river littered with castles, rieslings, crags, and a mermaid. The Lorelei is known to sing beautiful songs and comb her beautiful hair, luring captains to wreck their ships on her rock.
There are many low lying mountain chains that leave the Rhein and Moselle rivers. Wine (particularly riesling) is the major export. Another major import of the past are the Amish that have settled the mid-USA.
The red sandstone cliffs of the Pfälzerwald are certainly irresistible to a climber. Much of the climbing lies in a national park (Pfälzerwald naturpark). Ettringen, Kottenheim and Mayen have given us immaculate basalt quarry face and crack climbs. There are also amazing limestone crags in this state.

From Braxtron's description of the Südpfalz:
Loads of sandstone towers hidden behind tall, lush pine trees, scattered throughout the Pfalz area in SW Germany.

Whether you like 'old school' trad climbing on sandstone towers or prefer 'new school' hard, sport climbs, you'll likely find what you're looking for. Many summits can be reached by hiking, and you can throw a TR on some routes.

Warning: 70m and 80m ropes are often used by Euroclimbers. You may see other parties using only one rope for a climb, but don't assume your puny 60m will reach the ground.

If you're from US & A, you've probably grown quite fond of your chalkbag. Unfortunately, you may have to do without as the usage of chalk is frowned upon due to strict ethics and environmental concerns. Don't be surprised if someone politely asks you to put your Magnesia (chalk) away, then flicks their cigarette butt on the ground, and begins climbing in a banana hammock.

Mehr Information auf Deutsch: www.on-sight.de/gebiete/index.html?pfalz_ge.html

Getting There

Fly to Frankfurt, get on the DB to your crag of choice. Another cheap option is to fly into Frankfurt-Hahn on Ryanair, where tickets for less than $10 can be purchased.

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Mike Lydon
park city, utah
Mike Lydon   park city, utah
Nice sandstone in beautiful forest. Worth a look if you are in the area. Go to a place called barenbrunnerhof near Dahn for beta, gear, camping and possible partners. There is good climbing within walking distance of the hof also. Oct 6, 2010
marde
Germany
marde   Germany
You can climb all routes with a 50m rope.
You just can't link pitches then.
Rapelling is no problem with 50m, absolutely never a problem with 60m rope. Sep 24, 2008

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