Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit:
facebook.com/friendsofindia… saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2… 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
DURANGO
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Vail
Park on the left side of the buttress and take a good trail that spits you out right at the awesome Violator OW (5.11). Route is visible from the road.
The Bloom book is somewhat useful but not great for the area.
Routes #1-7 are pretty accurate, although I would give Full Cavity Search 3 stars as it is super cool.
To the right of Violator you have in order the following (not all routes are included):
Lady Bird (under big leaning block)
#8 LFD
#9 RFD
#10 and #11 share anchors (#11 is called Nutter Fingers [old plaque found])
For landmark--- next is the "tower"
#12 60' long LFD 5.11- *** super fun! route is above juniper tree
#13 this one is 20 feet to the right, above another juniper
#14 Tiffany's Mall Tour hands in slot to LFD
For landmark--- an old aid line?
#15 Sinbad was a Dog, located on prow by dead juniper
#16 tips dihedral, bullet holes at start, located after turning corner to the right, soil is grey here
#17 Slip huge pink LFD, looks awesome
New Route--- "O" the Big Black Dog, OW 5.11, 35m, **** super awesome and clean
#18 Bombs over Belgrade, a very dark LFD, 5.11, 28m, ****
New Route--- unknown, fists, OW, huge roof, more OW, super fun, rating unknown maybe 5.11
New Route--- Brother "O", OW, 5.11-, *** the wavy gravy of OWs, cool moves, 70ft
#20 The Big "O", OW, 5.10, ***
Spittness, 5.10-, (wrong order in book)
#21 Hot Sex, black LFD on top of terrace
A few misc routes follow next….. they are a bit hard to decipher.
#24 unknown 5.10, LFD, ***, located far right above a big square boulder
Any additional input to the above list would be cool. I really like this wall. Apr 17, 2016
Found the bloom book to be pretty lacking for this wall. The routes here are far more spread out than we had inferred from the descriptions, and the topo is worse than useless as it lists routes in the wrong order with no regard for the scale of distance between them.
I'm attaching a crude topo with approximate locations of climbs we could recognize, identified by the numbers given in the guidebook. Hopefully you have an easier time navigating than we did.
Beyond that, pretty fun little crag which is highly accessible and rarely crowded. Many thanks to the developers.
Boulder, CO
Also, there are a lot of new and excellent routes on this wall in the new guidebook that should be added to MP if someone has the time. I only add climbs I've climbed, so if someone wants to get sendy and update the MP page, I'm sure many people would be thankful. That being said, buy the new guidebook if you can. It's a great resource and is really well done. Nov 13, 2018