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Routes in Tom's Thumb

Flashback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guides Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands and Frans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hangnail S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hangover T A1
Skateing Away T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thumb One S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb Thing T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Thumb Thump T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Thumbelina T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thumbs-N-Noses T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tomfoolery T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Elevation: 5,000 ft
GPS: 40.254, -120.534 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,230 total · 53/month
Shared By: Paul Bernard on Oct 27, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Muscrat, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Incredible granite plug on a ridge top. Beautiful climbs up dikes and cracks.

Getting There

Directions (provided by Tad Hocking):
From Hwy 395 about 12 mi. south of Susanville, head SW up Janesville Grade Road for 4.7 mi. Turn right on dirt road towards Thompson Peak lookout. Follow that road 1.9 miles, then turn right and follow that dirt road to a gravel quarry area about 1.5 miles. Head to the south side of the quarry and you should see the rock.
Addendum: (Added by Muscrat 6/15)
This is a really tough spot to find. Google Earth has it at 40º15'13.50" N and 120º32'04.17"W. The turn off is at 40º 14' 22.07" N and 120º 31' 23.98" W. If you get to the fire lookout, turn around, you done gone too far! Keep an eye out to the east on the way back down, you can see it when the road crests from the west side back to the east side. DO NOT DRIVE DOWN THE LAST 150' OF ROAD WHEN YOU ARE AT THE CRAG. The sandy hill is difficult even w/4wd. You have been warned!

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tom's Thumb

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb One
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Thumb Thump
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Thumb One
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Thumb Thump
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
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Pioneered this crag 77/78 after Joe Fitschen told me the crag had possibilities.

Put up my routes on lead using hexes, stoppers and slinging natural features. Top roped many other routes on the SW
face that others have since bolted.

See Paul Bernards "Rock Climbs Of N.E. California" for history and beta.

Tad Hocking Dec 26, 2012
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Daniel Siegel
Denver, CO
Daniel Siegel   Denver, CO
Went out to Tom's Thumb yesterday.
It was nice to have a crag to yourself on a weekend. Access was super easy.
The climbing is fun, but I would say there is nothing "classic". Also, some of the rock is questionable. In order to get your day's worth be a solid 5.9 leader. You wouldn't want to fall of "Skating Away" or "Hans and Frans". It was a fun place to take some friends that were new to climbing. They enjoyed the challenge or learning friction on granite while still having face holds to break up those friction moves. The setting is beautiful and we didn't see anyone else there.
It appears that someone tried to add a bolt to "Hans and Frans" between the first and the second bolts. The hanger has been removed, but the bolt is still there. The guidebook calls this section of the route "sporty". I would agree.
There was a small wasps nest in the finger crack of "Skating Away". They didn't bother us. I climbed laps on it. It was scary to see as I was well above the bolt and hadn't placed gear yet. Fun times! Jul 12, 2015

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